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Step
5.8+,
Trad, 140 ft (42 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 64
votes
FA: Jess Tucker - 1984
N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Moore's Wall
> Moore's Wall (R…
> Amphitheater
Description
This line continues above
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) and has tremendous exposure, interesting movements, and huge jugs on it way to the top. Step right at the roof and take the path of least resistance to the top of the climb. Make sure to extended any gear you have in the roof very long to avoid rope drag on the overhang. You will need to build a gear anchor above the overhanging face, and then scramble over the bulge and down to the standard Amphitheater rap station to descend.
This is a much more interesting finish to Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) than the traverse out left and is highly recommended.
Location
Climb Golden Earring in the Amphitheater, but instead of traversing left at the roof, step out and right to gain the steep face above. The climbing looks more intimidating from the ground than it actually is.
Protection
standard NC rack -- gear placements abound.
Casper, Wyoming
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
William - 4' slings could help there but so could being very thoughtful with your placements. I used long runners (24") throughout most of the line and placed a cam in the horizontal where you hand-traverse out over the roof (I had placed a piece lower at the roof but I back-cleaned it...good choice). Drag was minimal as I climbed S&F. My rope drag problem came at the end where you traverse left to finish S&F...I placed a piece too far right and it was killing me by the time I topped out. Jun 25, 2012
Victor, MT
Winston-Salem, NC
Otherwise, great climb. Any pro placed after the key crux placement (w/ 4' runners) on golden earring should be back cleaned before starting up the steep face. Feb 20, 2017
If I remember correctly it was only 2 or 3 moves traversing to the right before you started climbing up gain. Sep 7, 2017
Winston-Salem, NC
Many people are unaware of the origins of the term "step and fetch", but if you Google it, the racist, white supremacist history of the expression is immediately clear. It is an expression that was used as an order from masters to enslaved people, and it fell into casual use as a joke meaning, more or less, "you better hurry up!" That may seem bland on its face, until you stop to think that the punchline is if you're too slow you'll be whipped. Not funny anymore.
"StepandFetchit" was also the stage name of Lincoln Theodore Monroe Andrew Perry, who parlayed the character into a successful movie career and was widely credited as the first Black actor to have a film career at all. The character was billed as "the laziest man in the world" and pandered to white supremacist stereotypes of white superiority and negative views of black people. Yes there is academic debate about whether or not he was actually or partly a character of the "trickster" archetype, outwitting his oppressors by pandering to their own sense of superiority, but the fact remains that the punch lines that got the laughs relied on the most base and dehumanizing portrayal of black men, and that is why the character and movies fell out of circulation during the civil rights era.
Route names that employ racist stereotypes make our crags unwelcoming and unsafe for BIPOC. With due respect to the FA who chose the name, this is not a question of the name being "offensive". Swear words, sexual innuendo, political opinions etc, may be offensive, and I may not let my 6 year old read the guidebook, but the world keeps turning. This is a case of racism and oppression, and when we normalize language like this, we chase black people away from outdoor spaces. That needs to change, and climbers need to be on the right side of history.
I am not going to engage in debate here in the comment thread. If you have a strong opinion to the contrary and want to engage in civilized discussion, PM me here and we can exchange phone numbers and talk.
As for the route itself, it's great! The finish is actually probably less scary than the traverse left to the QS anchor that is the normal finish to Almost Seven, and the upper face protects really well. If you sling your piece under the roof on AS long, you should have no problem with rope drag on the upper face, even using shorter runners. This route gets you into a pretty amazing position for 5.8 effort, and is a ton of fun. Jul 23, 2020
Richmond, Va
It seems like a stretch to say "step and fetch" is only a phrase uttered to slaves by white masters and is therefore racist. I really do think it is best for the climbing community to re-examine route names, and remove those that are racist, but where we do set the bar? Just because you think a route name is racist, that doesn't make it racist.
An example. I name a route "whipping" after the spankings I received as a child. In my mind nothing racist about that. Just a testament to the corporal mindset of my mother. But, in 36 years someone makes the argument that "whipping" can only be a reference to the disgusting act of whipping slaves. Is "whipping" a solely racist phrase? A statue of a confederate general who fought for slavery should be removed. A phrase that marginalizes people of color should be stricken from our vocabulary. A route name that is obviously racist should be removed, but this route does not seem to fall into this category. Sep 5, 2020