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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jess Tucker - 1984
Page Views: 3,395 total, 35/month
Shared By: mbuntaine on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This line continues above Golden Earring and has tremendous exposure, interesting movements, and huge jugs on it way to the top. Step right at the roof and take the path of least resistance to the top of the climb. Make sure to extended any gear you have in the roof very long to avoid rope drag on the overhang. You will need to build a gear anchor above the overhanging face, and then scramble over the bulge and down to the standard Amphitheater rap station to descend.

This is a much more interesting finish to Golden Earring than the traverse out left and is highly recommended.

Location

Climb Golden Earring in the Amphitheater, but instead of traversing left at the roof, step out and right to gain the steep face above. The climbing looks more intimidating from the ground than it actually is.

Protection

standard NC rack -- gear placements abound.
drock3
 
drock3  
 
@Benandstuff: It's been a while since I've been on it, but every time I did it I remember thinking "Man, this looks hard" then I'd find the same holds and pull through on 5.8 moves.

If I remember correctly it was only 2 or 3 moves traversing to the right before you started climbing up gain. Sep 7, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Both MP and the Carolina Rocks guidebook give the route beta as "the path of least resistance" or "follow the jugs". Can anyone who has climbed this more than once verify that there is only one way up the steepness at the 5.8 grade? I climbed this on Saturday but have no idea if what I did was "standard" or not. More traversing than I expected.

Otherwise, great climb. Any pro placed after the key crux placement (w/ 4' runners) on golden earring should be back cleaned before starting up the steep face. Feb 20, 2017
smurray47
  5.8
smurray47  
  5.8
variation of golden earring finish that makes it a much more exciting and memorable climb. Good gear, just make sure to extend slings after jumping right. Do it. Finish with a gear-anchor and scramble over and down to golden earring anchor to descend. Apr 30, 2016
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Loved this route to finish Golden Earring in one big long pitch. Defintely gives the route a whole new type of variety. Had me smiling the whole way!

William - 4' slings could help there but so could being very thoughtful with your placements. I used long runners (24") throughout most of the line and placed a cam in the horizontal where you hand-traverse out over the roof (I had placed a piece lower at the roof but I back-cleaned it...good choice). Drag was minimal as I climbed S&F. My rope drag problem came at the end where you traverse left to finish S&F...I placed a piece too far right and it was killing me by the time I topped out. Jun 25, 2012
William Rhyne
Casper, Wyoming
 
William Rhyne   Casper, Wyoming
 
any body think that a four foot sling right before and after the roof would clear the rope drag Jan 30, 2012
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
I agree, this is the much better finish. Dec 5, 2009