Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Paul's Boutique

Egg Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Paul's Boutique T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Step up to the Mic T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Rothfeldt
Page Views: 656 total, 7/month
Shared By: Josh Odom on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Big slabby offwidth. Fun climbing and a great way to start the day!

Protection

Bring out the big pieces. Rap from tree at the top of the cliff.

Photos

- No Photos -
Robert Branch
Burnsville, NC
  5.8 PG13
Robert Branch   Burnsville, NC
  5.8 PG13
Good off width crack climb. The slope getting to it is a pain from the after effects of last fall's fire. It is dusty, loose, and the leaf litter plus the hickory nuts give a nice 'walking on ball bearings' effect. Jan 29, 2017
This climb is worth some more attention. It's fun. And yes, I would concur at 5.8-, as a nice well-protected not scary 5.8. If you've got some crack-climbing skills under your belt, and you want to try/practice, jump on this and simply stick to your principles. Stay in the crack, keep shoving your feet and nudging your way higher, and you will be fine. There aren't many "miracle holds" outside (or inside for that matter) of the crack to cheat and pull your way up, so it's a true fair test and you will find yourself wedged in like a hot dog the whole time, with a good bit of twisting, contorting, and grunting. Grade stays nice and consistent through the whole climb, never relenting but never getting too soft. It's great.

I used a 4, two 3's, two 1's, one .75, and I think that's it. (Kinda sewed it up, haha). You will be happy to have the big stuff. Most of the time you can place at or above your head, for the whimpy send.

Could use more traffic, but it's clean and ready to go. At this grade, and not being your typical face climb, this one's nice to have handy at the Bald. Jul 9, 2016
Rob Rives  
 
Lots of fun, despite being completely choked with leaves. Got lost and wandered up to this area, saw this crack and climbed without knowledge of name or grade. Nov 21, 2010
S.Mccabe
boulder, co
 
S.Mccabe   boulder, co
 
Good route. Quite dirty! Didn't use(or have) anything bigger than a 4" piece. Seemed more like about 80ft. Mar 19, 2010