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Routes in Grand Orcaface Tower

Maid in the Shade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1-2 R
South Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Three Amigos T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 735 total · 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A route that will get better over time. I had to clean a bunch o rock to clean the line. The bad thing, the route ends 1 pitch from the top. The summit bolt ladder has been chopped as of Oct 2009.
P1) Climb the center chimney- now cleaned this should be 5.7/5.8. As you near the end, continue straight up or cut right into low angle squeeze. 2 bolt belay, 80'
P2) Make dicey moves up a hollow flake to a bolt, then use hand size piece in another hollow flake then top step to ledge. Continue up finger and hand crack to a ow bulge then climb past a loose section to a good ledge. 1 belay bolt, C1+ or might go free for bold leader. 75'
P3) step up to horizontal and place a piece in a hole, traverse right to a low angle section with a giant loose block. Place gear as needed to not disturb the block, climb up left slanting ramp (5.6 R+) to belay. 60'. Belay is funkness fixed stopper and two tri cams (much better than the 1/2 spool of tat!)
P4) to right and up scree covered ledge up and left to base of bolt ladder. The first 5 bolts are missing.

Location [Suggest Change]

Northwest notch of the tower. The route climbs up to the ledge w/ the "Bobblehead", then up the face on the main tower. Raps, double from top of 3rd to notch, single line to base.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Double set smallest cams to #3 Camalot, plus 1 ea #4, #5, #6 or expect C.2 conditions.

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