To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Boltergeist
5.10a/b,
Sport, 95 ft (29 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 674
votes
FA: Jared Hancock, Tim Yates, Rick Weber - 2004
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Hideout
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit
Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at
muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Great climbing that never seems to quit. Soft for the grade, Boltergeist makes a terrific choice for a leader's first 10b.
Thin moves at the start make stick clipping a prudent choice. Climb on good edges and ledges past several bolts and a bulge to a nice rest ledge. Continue up the face to more purely slabby climbing at the finish.
Location
Starts on the face just right of Shock and Awe.
Protection
13 bolts, bolted anchors.
![Roberts methodically moving up the slab]()
[Hide Photo] Roberts methodically moving up the slab
![Eddie works his way through the upper section of Boltergeist.]()
[Hide Photo] Eddie works his way through the upper section of Boltergeist.
![Maeve moving though the bottom]()
[Hide Photo] Maeve moving though the bottom
![A good ledge to clip and get a rest after some thin stuff at the start.]()
[Hide Photo] A good ledge to clip and get a rest after some thin stuff at the start.
![Looking down at the middle of the route. View from Pre-emptive Strike.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the middle of the route. View from Pre-emptive Strike.
![Emmett in the upper section of the route just below the slabby top-out at the end of a great day in May. View from Pre-emptive Strike.]()
[Hide Photo] Emmett in the upper section of the route just below the slabby top-out at the end of a great day in May. View from Pre-emptive Strike.
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Brooklyn
St. Paul, MN
Pittsburgh, PA
Columbus, OH
Agree with Mark above, though. I really felt it should've probably ended at the final bolt--though the view wouldn't be quite as nice. Oct 1, 2012
Boulder, CO
Washington DC
NorCal
Travelers Rest, SC
Red River Gorge
Climbing Boltergeist 5.10b was a blast. It was well bolted and tall at 95 feet. The hardest part of the climb was pulling the upper bulge onto the slab section while staring into the sun. I was climbing via braille because I was blinded by the sun. Be prepared for a line since this is a 5 star climb right at the top of the approach trail. Aug 17, 2019
Toronto, ON
San Diego, CA
Lexington, KY
Kentucky
Louisville, KY
Montréal