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Lichen Forty Winks
5.7+,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 22
votes
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, Dave Craft, 1988
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
Route description:
1. Start about 10 feet left of the outside corner that is 10 feet left of the start of
Sleepwalk. Go straight up the face to the third overhang. Cross this (crux) then, most sensibly, go up and right to the
Ants' Line bolts. 70 feet, 5.8-
2. Go straight up the face, staying 10-15 feet right of a large, bent pine tree. Climb easy rock past a clean, white section, go over a small roof (crux, a bit of loose rock) and then go past a second overhang and on to the top. It's much more pleasant and sensible to skip the second overhang and diagonal right to a very large pine. 5.7-, 60 feet.
From the clifftop, walk climber's left to the
High Exposure rappel line.
Decent protection, decent climbing. Standard 'Gunks rack
Brookline, MA