Type: Trad, Mixed, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Dave Rone, Burt Lindquist 3/09
Page Views: 505 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Oct 23, 2009
Admins: Dave Rone

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Description

Start at the base of a blocky right-leaning ramp system 50' left of Reflection Wall. Climb up and right 40' to a difficult step (crux) left onto easier, lower-angle terrain. Continue up following the path of least resistance, moving right to bypass rotten ice and rock near the top of the route. Make an exciting traverse back left, and climb 20' to the belay/rappel anchor.

Overall rock quality is good, the tool placements are positive, and it takes gear well. It can be drytooled all the way if there is no ice.

The first attempt of this route was a week earlier, when it had considerably more ice. Unfortunately on that day we chose to climb Reflection Wall first, and what began as a cloudy day turned into intense sun, so the route began deteriorating fast. I had made it up about 50' to a decent ledge when the decision was made to bail. It turned out to be a good one because I was still untying from the rope when a big ice curtain from the top of the wall let loose, crashing onto the ledge I had vacated less than 5 minutes earlier!

Location

Reticulation is about 50' left of Reflection Wall.

Protection

Stoppers 1 each #1-4, 3-#5, 2-#6, 2-#7, 2-#9; Camalots 1-3; TCU's 2-#0, 1-#2, 1-#3; Quadcams 1-#5, 1-#6. Have some long runners for the finish. There is a rappel anchor on the large tree at the top of the route.

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