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Routes in Kaymoor Slabs

A Date with Disappointment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool Effect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newd Scientist T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pudd's Purty Dress S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Que's Jook Joint S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat's Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm of Movement T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slab-O-Meat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Totally-Clipse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upheaval, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Villain's Course S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Walking in Your Footsteps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
With a Little Help from My Friends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed 1990
Page Views: 1,726 total · 17/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 23, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Work up the chimney, corner feature till you can step left onto the face. Head up the left facing flake that arches to the left out onto the steep wall. Once the flake ends start a series of boulder problems on crimps and pockets up the steep orange wall with rests in between on horizontals. The crux comes with a really long reach going to the 9th bolt. Finish by pulling delicately onto the slab.

Fun route with a good variety of holds, a fairly distinct crux though plenty of other difficult moves, and the potential to blow it all getting onto the slab.

Location

At the far right side of Kaymoor slabs locate the steep wall that is set in a little from the rest with a left facing corner/chimney at the right edge. Pudd's Pretty Dress starts up this corner and takes the left line of bolts up the orange section of the wall. There is a line that goes more straight up from the 2nd or 3rd bolt that is 5.13a.

Protection

10 bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos

Brad Leneis
  5.12d
Brad Leneis  
  5.12d
This route is the Orange Juice of the New. Apr 13, 2015