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Cold Fusion

5.12a, Sport, 110 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 63 votes
FA: John Rosholt
Arizona > Central Arizona > Homestead > Rough Rider Wall
Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

A Gambler classic, one of the longest routes at the Homestead, and one of the first routes put up on the RR. Crux is before the midway point, sustained climbing follows with great holds on a steep bulging arete to the top.

Location

Just to the left when the trail hits the wall. Sixth bolt line in from the right side of RR wall. Stay left where bolt line splits. It ends on the steep bulging arete feature.

Protection

16 bolts to rings! You will need a 70 meter rope to be lowered to the ground or with a 60m you can lower to Rough Rider's anchors and then rap from there.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bolt 1 of 16.
[Hide Photo] Bolt 1 of 16.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Great route, very sustained for the first 3/4 then a no hands rest to a cool steep section on huge holds. Dec 4, 2009
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Great route one of the best that I have climbed. I prefer the longer lines with harder moves at the top so you have to fight the pump! Sep 28, 2010
Jimbo
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Stiff for .11d. Crux 15 feet is in your face. I've done several .12a's that were easier than this route.
The top arete is no harder than 5.10 with big holds and great exposure.
Great route all in all. Jun 13, 2011
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Some beta lists this route going at 11d, some beta lists it at 12a. Not a huge difference either way. The consensus does seems to be leaning toward 12a.
Regardless, it's a hell of a line. Jul 11, 2011
jeffrey c gibson
pheonix az
 
[Hide Comment] 12 apple Feb 1, 2012
Joseph M.
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Great climbing up a tall piece of stone to an amazing headwall consisting of serious pump and awesome exposed arete climbing! The crux down low made the onsight not all that difficult. Apr 17, 2012
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Seriously good stuff. Really technical and delicate climbing between bolts six and eight move into some .11 territory into a sit down rest and finishes with gigantic jugs. Highly recommended. If you are shorter definite .12a, taller people could be .11d. Jan 26, 2013
[Hide Comment] So so fun! Great route for a particularly sleepy or hungry day. After some awesome moves, the no hands-no feet rest is the perfect spot for a nice nap and a snack before finishing up on some great jugs! Jan 2, 2014
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This climb is unbelievably good! Fun and easy intro leads to tricky 12a crux, then sustained, grin-inducing 10+ to a nice bivy ledge, finishing with a spectacular summit prow 90 feet up. Mar 19, 2016