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Routes in Chalcopyrite Wall

Crimson Behelit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand Jive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hand to Hand Combat T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 155 ft
FA: KC Baum and Andrea Heath 6/27/89
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Oct 22, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Short private property approach to BLM land. Details

Description

Begin at twin hand cracks with a chockstone ~15 up. Pass the chockstone to a good ledge and climb the overhanging hand crack above (crux). Continue up the crack system via mostly hands and a little offwidth before the chains.

Optional pitches 2 and 3 ascend dirty 5.6/7 crack and chimney to the rim.

Location

This is at the west end of the buttress. A basketball-sized chockstone is visible ~15 feet up from the highway. See the photo on the main page.

Protection

Standard rack plus many hand sized pieces, 1 #4 Camalot.

Photos

Mike Sullivan
Durango, CO
 
Mike Sullivan   Durango, CO
 
A very fun route -- two 5.9+ cruxes and much sustained 5.9 jamming in between. I don't think a #4 BD is needed, but at 155', the route can swallow a lot of #-.75 to #3 BD cams. I broke it into two pitches when it became clear that I would run out of larger pieces with a standard rack (doubles of everything and one #3).

There's a 2-bolt belay anchor at the top of the route that is visible from the ground. There's another 2-bolt rap anchor hidden about 10' west. This is a much cleaner rope pull. Jul 9, 2013

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