Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Chapman and Kevin Worrall, 1973
Page Views: 2,942 total · 25/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Oct 22, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The route starts with overhanging good hands crack , than thin hands, than off fingers. Just before crux when it become hard- there is the thin crack on the right which can be use for stemming.
The crux for me is huge rich for good fingerlock just above small horizontal crack in the middle of the route. This section is similar in difficulty to Anticipation on Arch rock. After the middle crux- route ease up to thin hands. The upper thin crux marked in book also 10d - felt at least two letters easier than first one. This route is my nemesis -I tried it 4 times and never redpointed. I even know the pro in order , but it is not help. I've been always trashed at the point to make move on first crux

Protection

Double from green Alien to Yellow Camelot. You can have additional #0.75 and #1 Camalots. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
This is one of the Valley suber classics but gets less traffic due to being sandwiched by areas nearby packed with good climbing. This climb is a great one to push your grades as it takes good gear the entire length and takes you through a variety of sizes without having to take a massive rack. May 10, 2012
Josh Harding
Mills River, NC
Josh Harding   Mills River, NC
You don't leave much to the imagination with that route description, going to have to change my shirt from the spray. Three bolt anchor, two 1/4 inch bolts and one Rawl button on a CMC hanger. 1/4 inch bolts have key chain size quick links for rapping. Feb 29, 2016
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Clear and defined crux section on this one, with decent rests before and after. Similar to Five and Dime in that way I thought. Also like Five and Dime, that crux sequence is hard and requires good technique. Can't easily fudge it if you're not solid on jamming the size. Aug 24, 2017