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> Af. Finger Lickin' Area
Finger Lickin'
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.9 from 49
votes
Routes in Af. Finger Lickin' Area
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Finger Lickin' T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fun Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Health Insurance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Profile T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jaw Bone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lifeline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Low Profile T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pandora's Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Petty Larceny T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pinky Paralysis T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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R and R T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snatch Power T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Woods Taylor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mark Chapman, Jim Donini and Kevin Worrall, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 5,059 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Oct 22, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The route starts with overhanging good hands crack , then thin hands, then off fingers. Just before crux when it become hard- there is the thin crack on the right which can be use for stemming.
The crux for me is huge rich for good fingerlock just above small horizontal crack in the middle of the route. This section is similar in difficulty to Anticipation on Arch rock. After the middle crux- route ease up to thin hands. The upper thin crux marked in book also 10d - felt at least two letters easier than first one. This route is my nemesis -I tried it 4 times and never redpointed. I even know the pro in order , but it is not help. I've been always trashed at the point to make move on first crux
The crux for me is huge rich for good fingerlock just above small horizontal crack in the middle of the route. This section is similar in difficulty to Anticipation on Arch rock. After the middle crux- route ease up to thin hands. The upper thin crux marked in book also 10d - felt at least two letters easier than first one. This route is my nemesis -I tried it 4 times and never redpointed. I even know the pro in order , but it is not help. I've been always trashed at the point to make move on first crux
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