Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Mark Chapman, Jim Donini and Kevin Worrall, 1973
Page Views: 5,059 total · 30/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Oct 22, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The route starts with overhanging good hands crack , then thin hands, then off fingers. Just before crux when it become hard- there is the thin crack on the right which can be use for stemming.
The crux for me is huge rich for good fingerlock just above small horizontal crack in the middle of the route. This section is similar in difficulty to Anticipation on Arch rock. After the middle crux- route ease up to thin hands. The upper thin crux marked in book also 10d - felt at least two letters easier than first one. This route is my nemesis -I tried it 4 times and never redpointed. I even know the pro in order , but it is not help. I've been always trashed at the point to make move on first crux


Double from green Alien to Yellow Camelot. You can have additional #0.75 and #1 Camalots. Bolted anchor.