Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Rabbit Ears (Rogue)
|Wandering Soul T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 450 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Greg Garretson, Tom John 10/3/09 Ground Up|
|Page Views:||1,106 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Garretson on Oct 22, 2009|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
Peregrine Falcon nesting Details
There are seasonal closures due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. Closure is usually from January 1 to July 31.
DescriptionPitch 1. 5.10+, 60m
Start on ramp 30 up hill from 3 Pines. 20 to 1st bolt. At 3rd bolt, move to flakes. 5 bolt has no hanger. Sling with wire nut. Move left. Small runouts through the 6th, 7th, 8th. Optional #1tcu.
Move right onto slab staying right through 9th & 10th. Traverse right on sidepulls through 11th.
Optional #3tcu before mantle. Dont fall here. Really. Clip bolt then climb corner. Optional #3tcu. Last bolt on top of block. Move left to anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.6, 25m
Reverse last moves. Step across gap. Climb up & right through easy chimney. Clip bolt on face then move right onto face. Small gear on face plus #3cam Climb up & right to ledges. Bolt & gear anchor.
Pitch 3, 5.9, 60m
Move up & right around big roof. Pull through smaller roofs. 3 bolts. Runout through pumpkin patch with 1 bolt to large ledge (5.4) Climb dihedral with 4 bolts. Step out of corner to slab. Great climbing. Then final moves to ledge.
LocationThis route is on the Southeast face of the West Ear.
The wall has a large green headwall. Start on ramp 30 up hill from 3 Pines. 60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.