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Routes in Rabbit Ears (Rogue)

Wandering Soul T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Greg Garretson, Tom John 10/3/09 Ground Up
Page Views: 1,106 total, 11/month
Shared By: Greg Garretson on Oct 22, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Peregrine Falcon nesting Details

Description

Pitch 1. 5.10+, 60m
Start on ramp 30’ up hill from 3 Pines. 20’ to 1st bolt. At 3rd bolt, move to flakes. 5 bolt has no hanger. Sling with wire nut. Move left. Small runouts through the 6th, 7th, 8th. Optional #1tcu.
Move right onto slab staying right through 9th & 10th. Traverse right on sidepulls through 11th.
Optional #3tcu before mantle. Don’t fall here. Really. Clip bolt then climb corner. Optional #3tcu. Last bolt on top of block. Move left to anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.6, 25m
Reverse last moves. Step across gap. Climb up & right through easy chimney. Clip bolt on face then move right onto face. Small gear on face plus #3”cam Climb up & right to ledges. Bolt & gear anchor.

Pitch 3, 5.9, 60m
Move up & right around big roof. Pull through smaller roofs. 3 bolts. Runout through pumpkin patch with 1 bolt to large ledge (5.4) Climb dihedral with 4 bolts. Step out of corner to slab. Great climbing. Then final moves to ledge.

Location

This route is on the Southeast face of the West Ear.
The wall has a large green headwall. Start on ramp 30’ up hill from 3 Pines. 60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.

Protection

Gear: 1 set of cams to 3”. 1 wire for 5th bolt.
1st, 4th & 7th bolts were later added on pitch 1.
Feel free to skip them. 12 (22”) runners + Draws.
60m rappel to the right of pitch 3. Bring 2nd rope.

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