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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: T. Gregory, S. Ohkawa, August 2008
Page Views: 488 total · 4/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Named after the stolen spaceship in Douglas Adams' The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, Heart of Gold shares the first 20 feet of the Gold Wall (L. Ellison, C. Noble, 1980), then ascends an obvious, thin finger crack--avoiding the tiered, leftward traverse of the original route. The finger crack begins just below an overlap and continues straight up the wall to reach a single bolt belay above a small stance. From the stance, follow the widening crack until it is possible to traverse left to a ledge below the start of the roofs on the Gold Wall.


Heart of Gold starts in a shallow, left-facing corner--the same start as the Gold Wall. The route can be linked to either the Gold Wall or to Fool's Gold (C. Harmston, K. Harvey, 19??); follow the standard descent off of the South Summit Wall, down the Collin's Highway.


Be sure to bring a selection of small wires and cams from tips to hands--doubles are not necessary, but may be useful. There is a single bolt at the belay; it can be backed up with finger-sized gear.


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