Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: T. Gregory, S. Ohkawa, August 2008
Page Views: 496 total · 4/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Named after the stolen spaceship in Douglas Adams' The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, Heart of Gold shares the first 20 feet of the Gold Wall (L. Ellison, C. Noble, 1980), then ascends an obvious, thin finger crack--avoiding the tiered, leftward traverse of the original route. The finger crack begins just below an overlap and continues straight up the wall to reach a single bolt belay above a small stance. From the stance, follow the widening crack until it is possible to traverse left to a ledge below the start of the roofs on the Gold Wall.

Location

Heart of Gold starts in a shallow, left-facing corner--the same start as the Gold Wall. The route can be linked to either the Gold Wall or to Fool's Gold (C. Harmston, K. Harvey, 19??); follow the standard descent off of the South Summit Wall, down the Collin's Highway.

Protection

Be sure to bring a selection of small wires and cams from tips to hands--doubles are not necessary, but may be useful. There is a single bolt at the belay; it can be backed up with finger-sized gear.

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