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Pocket Protector

5.10c, Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 18 votes
FA: Chris Prewitt, Brent Silvester, Eric Rhicard
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 7 - Upper Highway > Mt Bigelow > Trundle Pinnacle

Description

Best pocket route of its grade in the Catalinas. The hardest part about this route is settling on which jugs to use. A low crux gives way to shamefully large pockets on the upper face.

With a standard rack it is possible to continue up from the slab left of the anchors. Climb the bulge, then left, then up through bulges to the "high-point" anchors on the pinnacle. A single 70M rope will get you back to your pack. Might be a good idea to bring extra webbing for the anchor.

(Please note that the rock quality rapidly deteriorates higher above this ledge. The final few feet of the tower is not actually attached. It is not recommended to attempt to gain the true summit.)

Location

East Face of Trundle Pinnacle. The route starts in the overhanging corner on the left side of the wall.

Protection

Here's your chance to try out those tricams, Aliens, nuts,and TCU's to 2" in pockets. Or...

6 bolts + shared anchor with Wing Development. A hand-sized cam will protect the climbing to the first bolt or use a stick-clip.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pocket Protector 5.10c
[Hide Photo] Pocket Protector 5.10c
Vince feeling green with envy.
[Hide Photo] Vince feeling green with envy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brent Silvester
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Ohhhh yeah. The best, and only, warm up route for the area. I might have climbed this route almost 10 times, and it's keeps getting more and more fun!!!! If your climbing at this grade, I would recommend this route highly. Oct 22, 2009
Michael Russo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Solid route. Felt kinda like a one move wonder to huge jugs to the chains. Runout by modern standards but on big holds and easier terrain, and understandable given its development/FA process. Well spaced bolts where you need them. The pockets are unique with few, if any, route like it on the mountain. 2.5 stars. Jun 13, 2023