Type: Boulder
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,750 total · 16/month
Shared By: doug rouse on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Sit start under the roof, and follow the zig-zag crack to where it goes vertical. At the top of the vertical crack, make a long reach out left to a reasonable hole with the left hand. Proceed up and left across micros; including a 2-finger hole, with very small feet until you are able to make a safe top-out. A little nerve wracking without a spotter.


This problem is located within a "cockpit-like" hole about 50' down from Arrowhead Arete. One also passes this hole as they make the crossing over the the entrance of the cave where Known Secret, and Tornado are located. Identify a zig-zag handcrack coming out a roof.


1 pad is good, 2 pads are better, a spotter is best!


doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
I don't know if this has another name, but I took the liberty for the sake of needing a name. Please correct if it is important to you. I need should mention that I found some of the small crimps on the face had been cleaned prior to my ascent, and the line is too obvious to claim a first. Needs more traffic, and a stiff wire brush to clean up the feet some. Well worth doing if you are in the area. Oct 21, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Returned yesterday with the aforementioned wire brush. The feet are all nice and clean now. Oct 25, 2009
Paul Hassett
Aurora CO
Paul Hassett   Aurora CO
If you are talking about the area that crosses underneath a large, north facing cliff band, as you are headed west to the arrowhead arete problem, then it has a name.

Here is a description to see if we are talking about the same thing:
problem starts down in a pseudo cave with a rock to your North that you can use to clean the line, or bail out on if you don't feel like committing. Start with hands in large crack and do a cross over or jam move (seen it done both ways), and get your feet up reaching left up to reasonable hole. Reach out left again to small divot, and then sequentially up on small edges putting feet in hole to top out. Sound like the same?

Problem name is "Sweet Nectar" after the terrible hornet nest originally inhabiting one of the cracks. Yes, I realize that hornets do not actually make honey or nectar, but made sense at the time, as most things do.

The crack has actually been taken from start to finish across its entirety.

Additionally, the face/roof above it has been done on top rope, and is actually quite fun.

Lastly, there are two problems (at least) I have not seen mention of that should be checked out or done:

1. For reference, if you are standing above/south of the square block. Head West, and go past the obvious problem climbing the slightly overhanging face on crimps - originally called "Us and Them" now called I don't know what. Continue on until your reach a large block you can get up with a little effort and go briefly South. You should be in a little grotto with a small roof, large slab to your left (east). Duck under the little roof and get on the east facing rail. You are essentially hanging on a rail, and get your feet on. Work your way around the corner (climbing now) into a nice crack/jam on the face. WITHOUT using the top of the block continue on until you are satisfied - called "Balancing Point".

2. From the problem "Arrowhead Arete" go down hill (North) to a block with potentially 2+ problems on it, including a great sloping top out directly up its North face. Could never pull it, but another great line. Mar 12, 2010
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Sweet Nectar! Thanks for checking in Paul, I believe we are talking about the same line...as the rock behind was available to bail on...although still with some degree of committment. The face above with the offset above the small roof looks like fun. Big reach out of a hole. Apr 2, 2010