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9. The Chicks And The Money

5.11a/b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: Equipped by A.L.
Michigan > Upper Peninsula > Marquette (and… > Glenda's Pile > Lower Pile

Description

Climb up to the ledge to clip the first bolt. Clip up and right of the bolts to a small stance before the crux. Battle up the flaring cracks and face to a stance. Rest up, it ain't in the bag, a bulging top out remains.

Climb the finger crack just left of the 2nd bolt to climb on gear. I am unaware of any assents done on gear but it is highly possible

Location

This is one of the more intimidating (i use this word loosely) faces on the wall.  This is on the upper section, just left of the Jolly dihedral.

Protection

Sport: 6 QD's + anchors
Trad: 1 set of nuts, up to #2

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jake on the "Unknown" crack
[Hide Photo] Jake on the "Unknown" crack
Center of frame.
[Hide Photo] Center of frame.
You can see the first bolt to the right of the tree.
[Hide Photo] You can see the first bolt to the right of the tree.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jaren Strandlie
[Hide Comment] It was kind of wet today and I dropped in on this from above. The critical block I would have used while clipping bolt two is loose. Kind of ruins it for me. I didn't pull it out, but maybe a favorable break would allow for future climbing to be similar in difficulty.
Some wobble on other blocks as well. I took a vid:
youtu.be/Y9zpK7rozRI Sep 13, 2020
Andrew Brodhead
SLC
[Hide Comment] Jaren,

Thanks for the video. If I remember correctly, those blocks and that fin have been loose for years. If you were to ever be on a fixed line again, I would possibly take care of the problem if the crack were to open up. No need to have loose blocks on sport climbs...then again the pile is Marquette's forgotten stepchild. Dec 13, 2020