To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
BOHICA
5.13b,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 26
votes
FA: Jeff Moll 1995
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Bald Rock Recre…
> Motherlode
> (4) Madness Cave
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
Move over the roof to start. head up the steep face past a couple of bolts to a section with some smaller pockets before things get vertical. A hard move at the end of the vertical section at a blank band of rock goes either left or right. Rest up well in the break. The hardest moves on the upper wall are right off of the rest. Use underclings to make a long move up onto the first 1 1/2 pad edges. Continue out the 45 degree wall on similar holds to a jug right where the angle lessens, try to rest then punch to the first anchor.
Location
The second route from the left in the Madness cave. Starts off of a boulder at some pockets in a roof.
Protection
Bolts and a bolted anchor.
[Hide Photo] Greg Kerzhner sans rope
[Hide Photo] Adrien working through the steep section with Leslie Timms on Flower Power
[Hide Photo] Adrien sticking the commiting move before the midway rest on BOHICA
[Hide Photo] Coming off the rest. Sweet photo by Tyler Kelly
[Hide Photo] Adrien apporaching the fist hard bit on the lower wall of BOHICA
[Hide Photo] Working through the tough moves coming out of the rest on BOHICA