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BOHICA

5.13b, Sport, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 14 votes
FA: Jeff Moll 1995
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Bald Rock Recre… > Motherlode > (4) Madness Cave
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Move over the roof to start. head up the steep face past a couple of bolts to a section with some smaller pockets before things get vertical. A hard move at the end of the vertical section at a blank band of rock goes either left or right. Rest up well in the break. The hardest moves on the upper wall are right off of the rest. Use underclings to make a long move up onto the first 1 1/2 pad edges. Continue out the 45 degree wall on similar holds to a jug right where the angle lessens, try to rest then punch to the first anchor.

Location

The second route from the left in the Madness cave. Starts off of a boulder at some pockets in a roof.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Greg Kerzhner sans rope
[Hide Photo] Greg Kerzhner sans rope
Adrien working through the steep section with Leslie Timms on Flower Power
[Hide Photo] Adrien working through the steep section with Leslie Timms on Flower Power
Adrien sticking the commiting move before the midway rest on BOHICA
[Hide Photo] Adrien sticking the commiting move before the midway rest on BOHICA
Adrien apporaching the fist hard bit on the lower wall of BOHICA
[Hide Photo] Adrien apporaching the fist hard bit on the lower wall of BOHICA
Working through the tough moves coming out of the rest on BOHICA
[Hide Photo] Working through the tough moves coming out of the rest on BOHICA
Adrien on the final push to the anchors
[Hide Photo] Adrien on the final push to the anchors