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Routes in Gallant Wall

Presiding Nymph T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run Aground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scandinavian Tuna S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Hank Armantrout, Brith Otterud, 1993
Page Views: 1,015 total, 10/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Oct 19, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is the unique and roundabout way to climb the arete of the Gallant Wall.
Holding as much character as it does kitty litter, i'm not sure which is crustier- Scandinavian tuna or English tuna?

A bit friable, Scandinavian Tuna offers a spicy way to reach the top of the buttress.
Established ground up in 1993, Scandinavian Tuna preserves its old school feel by hosting exposed and spacious climbing with protection only available at obvious stances. Climb with confidence, this route leaves little room for error.

Start in the center of the Gallant Wall's left face. Very alert climbing over a tricky face gains a hidden pin set behind a two foot wide ledge. From here a delicate and committing traverse left allows another stance at a bolt. Next, a couple of thin slab moves on an attention demanding arete eventually get you to a rest at a separation in the wall. At this point, the final two pins become visible. Continue climbing what may be the crux past cool crystal dikes. Top out and walk to the anchor.

Scandinavian Tuna is an adventurous way to "test the waters". The route has tough climbing between good rests. This is an excellent way to warm up to the steeper routes on the wall as well as test your psyche for live-wire climbing.

Location

Far left center face of the Gallant Wall.

Protection

Three pins and a bolt. A slung tree is used for an anchor.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10 R
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10 R
R in its current state. Lots of opportunities to break a hold and beef it. If it happens before reaching the 1st pin you're in the trees. If it happens before the bolt you might keep your ankles. If it happens on the way to the 2nd pin you'd better kick as hard as you can, that way you'd avoid tapping the ledges at the base and end up somewhere in more trees. Oct 19, 2009