Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt, 1980
Page Views: 779 total · 7/month
Shared By: Will S on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

Description

A 12' roof crack starting fingers and quickly going to hands then OW. Circus tricks ensue to gain a wide horn at the lip.

Location

This route is on the northeast side of Escape Rock, right off the trail that leads out toward Room to Shroom or the Don Juan Boulder. The roof is high on your left, easily visible, several hundred yards past the dam/Rat Rock area. If the lake is dry, the approach is a straight shot. If full, skirt the right/east side of the lake and eventually back around the north end, this is a better option than crossing the dam and doing endless slab traversing and boulder hopping.

Protection

Tips to huge.

Photos

Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
This looks like it could be a fun one for a Top Rope Tough Guy like me.... Can this one be safely TR'd? What's the anchor situation on top? (and is there an easy way to get up there?) Aug 4, 2010
Ben H  
Jeff, the routes to the top of the formation are mostly gritty and junky, but a tr can be set up. The bottom of emotional rescue is also pretty trashy...once at the roof the quality improves. The route just isn't good as it looks like it would be. Dec 18, 2010