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Six Bolts and a Plug

5.9, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2 from 24 votes
FA: May 2008, George Hurley and Joe Perez
New Hampshire > WM: N Conway > 02. Humphrey's… > 3. Dedication Area

Description

A nice face climb that requires a good variety of moves. Follow the line of six bolts that angles slightly left. The left side of the overlap at the top of the climb is expanding so use care. Also be extremely careful not to knock any loose rock (there is lots!) off the tree ledge at the top of the climb.

Location

SBAAP starts 25' to the left of the route Dedication. (Check the Webster guidebook for details on finding Dedication, and then move left.) Rappel off of this one or climb an upper wall route such as: Dr. Leakey I Presume ( 5.9+R)

Protection

Bring six draws and a #2 camalot for the overlap at the top. Belay from a tree with slings and rap rings on a nice ledge tree ledge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben Miller plugging his way up the face
[Hide Photo] Ben Miller plugging his way up the face

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jamescolinwalsh17
 
[Hide Comment] A hold broke off of this one last month while I was climbing it, just above the fourth bolt. I don't know if this has changed the difficulty. Jun 21, 2010
Jeremy A
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Great fun. IMO it is a solid .8 and looks much more deceiving from the ground. I was/am super concerned of that block at the top. Belayer/climber should be very cautious... Aug 30, 2011
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I avoid even touching the blocks at the overlap, never mind plugging in a cam. An alcove just past the overlap on the left has a small birch you can put a double length runner on. LOTS of loose rock by the anchor tree (slings w/rap rings). I also use the first bolt as part of the lower anchor. Apr 30, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
[Hide Comment] This is a fine, fun little route. Do "It's Five What", which is the next route to the right. Steep face with bolts (bring a med cam for the top, although it's not necessary). Nice .10a moves. Jul 14, 2015
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Definitely worth doing. It's a rather puzzling, unobvious series of moves that is quite difficult for 5.8. It's pretty steep, and at the crux trying to get to the next bolt (which seemed far away), the holds for hands were less than positive, and the feet were not in convenient places. I even had trouble on toprope.

The climb next to it, the 5.10a called "It's Five What?" is also a good climb, Sep 3, 2015