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White Punks on Dope

5.11a, Trad, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2 from 7 votes
FA: Eric Foster
Arizona > Central Arizona > Isolation Canyon > Main Wall - North

Description

Starts in the corner crack to the right of Allez Lou. Climb to the top of corner crack and traverse right to where there is a thin crack that takes gear from >.3-.75 BD. This section is essentially face climbing with good traditional protection. After the crack ends continue up a now bolted face through a couple harder moves to the anchor. (There are 2 bolts for the anchor but there are currently no quicklinks for rappelling, should be up soon. Climb up and left to Allez Lou for lowering or rappelling)

Location

This route shares the start of Delayed Gratification and is one of the furthest to the right on the north main wall. Right of Allez Lou.

Protection

One of each .3-.75. One #3 for down low. Three bolts on face to two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

ON the crack protected section.
[Hide Photo] ON the crack protected section.
Going up on lead after the new bolts were put in.
[Hide Photo] Going up on lead after the new bolts were put in.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Foster
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Bolts will be up tomorrow (March 10th 2012). I will update the info for pro once I am done. Mar 10, 2012
Eric Foster
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Bolts are in and the route is well protected now. I downgraded the route, not as hard as I once thought it was back in the day when the upper section didn't have good protection. I will have to look in your guide again to see if it is accurate for where the climb goes but in general I think it shows it well as I remember. Mar 10, 2012
NC Rock Climber
The Oven, AKA Phoenix
 
[Hide Comment] Did this today, and was amazed at how little traffic it appears to get (there was no chalk other than mine and my partner's on this route). The trad section at the bottom goes at 5.9 and takes great gear. The upper section is well bolted and the crux is done with a bolt at your knees. It is a fun climb!

There are no chains at the top bolts. I left two old (but perfectly safe) carabiners on the anchor bolts. Please, either leave the carabiners or add some chains to the anchors. Apr 23, 2014
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Accidentally dislodged a mini-fridge sized block just above the starting dihedral, where WPoD and Delayed Grat. separate. A couple of sizable blocks are loose and remained. To much action below at the time to clean off, but relatively easy to navigate around. Tread carefully through this section.

Still no chains -- didn't see the above comments until I was out there or I would've brought some. Left 2 painted leaver biners on the anchor bolts. Please don't take them. May 21, 2017
Javier G
Tempe, AZ
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] As of 5/7/23, this route still has only hangers and two carabiners. I donated a sling just to ease with lowering off the climb (friction was too much with biners alone). Be prepared to possibly leave a sling if climbing and wanting to lower or clean the route on rap.

Really enjoyable climb, and deserving of the chains to help facilitate cleaning. FWIW, I found this roof crux more challenging than the one on La Vida Loca , but it could have been because this doesn’t see anywhere near the same traffic and as such might be harder to read onsight. Take care, loose blocks are still present May 8, 2023