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Shit Eatin' Grin
5.12b,
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: Topher Donahue, Drew Spaulding 1997
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Long Canyon
> Deadman's Buttress
Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb is a series of 3 cracks(as I recall, it's been a long time since I was there). 1st pitch starts in a right-facing corner which fades and steps right into a thin fingers up to hands at the anchor. The 2nd pitch is a Donahue Classic Splitter! Starts out hands tapering down to thin as the crack dissapears... reach right into the next crack. Tips, to thumb-stacks, to thin hands, to hands, to fists, to 6" up to the anchor. Great 2-pitch climb....
Location
It's been so long since I've been there... Definitely up to the right in Long Caynon on the north side of the drainage. If someone can help with a more specific location, that would be great. I remember Topher pointing out an offwidth splitter to the left that he and Craig Leuben had climbed weeks prior. I think it is near Chopper.......?????
Protection
Full array of gear needed!
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