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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 2,640 total, 27/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a good route - one of the better ones at this cliff. Start about 20 right of the obvious difficult slab climbing of Full Respect where there is a small overhang about 10 feet off the ground. This one climbs through the left side of the overhang.

Stem up, make a difficult first clip, then use a left sidepull that is not nearly as good as you hope to pull over the little roof.

After about 3 more bolts, another crux is surpassed with good pro. You get slopey feet and hands for two moves, then it's easy all the way to the top.

This was supposedly climbed solo by Ed Ash in the 1980s.

It was cleaned (again?) of fairly large chunks of rock by Alan Light before 2001 and led easily on gear. Someone deleted the original submission on this website for unknown reasons. Alan thought it was a first ascent and named it Whodathunkit. Subsequently, it was retrobolted in 2009. One of the energized bolters was willing to go and look at the crag to try to figure out which retrobolts could be removed to respect that this line could be easily climbed by a competent leader on gear. However, once they found Ed Ash and his solo ascent assertions from 1980s, all willingness to meet evaporated.

Protection

12 bolts, good slab footwork.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
This route seemed a little soft for the grade compared to other routes at the cliff. Fun movement and worth doing. Sep 13, 2017
Josh Q
  5.10b/c
Josh Q  
  5.10b/c
Agree with the description here. First clip isn't too bad if you find the right feet. I really enjoyed the second crux movement. I found a good high left hand that let me muscle right past. Top is pretty basic but makes for a decent finish of a moderate start. Sep 25, 2016