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Loyalty

5.9-, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 218 votes
FA: Ed Ash in the '80s, bolted by Bruno Haché, Ron Olsen, 2009
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Across from The Bihed…
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.

Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip.

Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention. Bring small cams if this is near your limit. Some now rate this 9+.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left on this little buttress.

Protection

8-10 bolts and possibly gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The big flake.
[Hide Photo] The big flake.
Loyalty route from the street.  The climber is directly over the big flake.
[Hide Photo] Loyalty route from the street. The climber is directly over the big flake.
Good shot of the route.
[Hide Photo] Good shot of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear. Jul 22, 2010
Jonny Greenlee
Denver, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely. Mar 7, 2012
Eric Klammer
Eagle, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely. Jul 11, 2013
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] There are 8 bolts on this route, unless you clip some on adjacent routes. Minor runout after B4 has ledge-fall potential and can be protected with a small cam (e.g. 0.3 - 0.5 BD). More significant runout above B6 can be protected with micro cams on the left or medium cams under the overlap to the right (long draw). Or just climb through it and wonder where those other bolts went. Jun 17, 2014
[Hide Comment] Don't be intimidated by the crux. All the holds are there. May 24, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Not worth bringing the gear unless you're going for other gear lines. The only runout is through easy climbing.

Partner and I both enjoyed this line quite a bit, but I'm not really sure where the crux is. The roof is pretty easy once you find the hold above it. We both thought this was 5.8, and we're gumbies. Certainly don't feel intimidated by the grade, though it *might* be a good idea to stick clip the second bolt if you're a new leader. The moves right below it are thoughtful, and a fall would be...unpleasant. Aug 4, 2015
Josh Quigley
St. Louis, Mo
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this route. Tons of fun the whole way up. We avoided the runout by placing 3 pieces of gear. It's my opinion that following the route with gear makes for a funner climb as you could run it out in a straight line and miss the fun roof. Would say this one was second favorite at this area. Not difficult at all for the grade. Sep 25, 2016
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] This route had some water on it today (early May), which made the crux more interesting. Under that roof though, DON'T move right to try to get the clip. It's really tough to move back left, and there aren't any good holds on the right, even though there appear to be some. Just go straight up with those underclings. May 12, 2017
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This route felt harder than the .10a to the right and harder than the route to the left to my partner and me. Sep 13, 2017
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Listed in the new edition Boulder Canyon book as 9+. 9- is more solid, but this climb is very fun, and you really only need one or two cams, 0.3 and 05 BDs give or take depending. Run it out up top. Aug 10, 2018
Hank Bjord
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This was very climb! Big rock inspires me and others! Very cruxy 5.9 I have ever climbed;) Get your pump on for this mega proj ---- Jul 6, 2023
Jonah Kern
Kirkland, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Really spooky runout near the top. I elected to clip the bolts for the route on the right and then drift back, but there was some major rope drag. A couple of alpine draws would reduce the drag, but the swing would still be an issue. Neat climbing the whole way up, would definitely do again Sep 9, 2023