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Routes in Massive Vertigo Area

Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Paul Dieterle
Page Views: 3,218 total, 33/month
Shared By: Remo on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Climb up south facing corner of tall boulder.

Location

Up in top of talus field past Group Leader. This is the largest boulder in the talus so it is easy to find once your up at the top.

Protection

Lots of pads and spotters.
Ian CB
  V3-4 PG13
Ian CB  
  V3-4 PG13
This thing is good! We had 3 big pads and a small and it padded up well. Nov 24, 2013
This is most easily found by going to the Pearly Gates buttress via the DL guidebook, then going down hill and south for about 150ft. Mar 12, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V4 PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V4 PG13
Paul we had 4 guys and ~8 pads, so it's a little different. We did have multiple big falls from the crux near the top. Perhaps also different beta since I never felt like I would fall anywhere except straight down to the pads. RAD problem and beautiful, aesthetic, 4 star DL feature. Also, it looks like you started further right than would be obvious? Jun 13, 2010
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
AWESOME GUYS! Interesting to see the discrepancies in danger. Probably due to lack of pads and experience. SO PSYCHED to see other people get on this!!! Jun 13, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V4 PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V4 PG13
Paul, nice work man, proud FA. We had a send train, Eggman, Remo, Vince, Matt all in rapid succession. Tall and super fun. Jun 10, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
This thing is really good Paul!!! A classic DL highball. Jun 10, 2010
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
after being back in the gym for a week now, I've concluded it's more v4 than v5 Dec 15, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Hey thanks Remo. You HAVE to get on this thing. SO amazing! Nov 30, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Nice job Paul. I knew you would send, congrats! Nov 30, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Thanks Chris and Sweaty! Yeah thanks again for the directions. We figured 3 hours of walking up and down the talus fields in search of it was enough. Nov 29, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
I see you finally found it. nice job. Nov 28, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
A "scary project" no more. FA Paul Dieterle (assuming it wasn't done before). Happy-Go Highball is the best name for it. I'd say it's more like 25 feet than 20, but that's splitting hairs really.

The route starts on two decently sized jugs 5-10 feet right of the arete. One is at eye height, the other about 18 inches up and left of the other. From there, you use a series of sharp incuts and a key 2 finger undercling crimp to get to a rest jug about 2 feet left of the arete. Then, using a seam on the left, sharp crimps on the right, and a bunch of smallish feet, you gain a sloping rail near the top. A sharp right hand pinch and a high step get you the top of the boulder, although there is no "thank god hold." Top it out and celebrate. About 18 moves in all.

My dad and I spent about an hour building up the landing and even though we had 2 pads (one more than usual), more would have been nice (we used ropes and such to protect random spikes). I guess I would call it "X" because of the insecurity at the top and the fact that if your right foot pops, you'll fall down a 500 foot talus field.

As for the grade, v5 is a tentative guess. I would say the bottom is v4+ and the top is v3, but the fact that no move is a gimme makes it pretty pumpy and sustained. I would love to have other people get on it and reach a consensus! No matter what the grade, I would say that the movement, combined with the feature, make it a 4 star classic and a must do for anyone who wants to get their highball on! Nov 28, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
oh, in that case...right on! Nov 19, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Totally f***ing with you bro! I wouldn't take most of what I say very seriously. Nov 18, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Gee, I guess I didn't realize commenting on a sweet boulder problem proj at the lake (comparing it to one of the best places to boulder in the world) would be so unacceptable. Nov 18, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
F*** Bishop... This is Devils Lake sir! Nov 18, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  V4 PG13
I'm with Rhoads. I've gotta see it at least. Looks like a good step towards stuff in Bishop Nov 10, 2009
Remo, get me on this thing! Looks rad! Oct 22, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Tony, this sits further up at the top of the talus field. Oct 15, 2009
Is this the face with the big pit underneath it just past group leader, or is this further up? Oct 15, 2009