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Routes in Forgotten Tower

Berg Heil Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C0 PG13
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Type: Trad, Aid, 220 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Joerg Brutscher, Erik Patterson 27.9.2009
Page Views: 596 total · 6/month
Shared By: JoergB on Oct 14, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

In the north side thin hand crack (5.10, 25m) to ledge. On this 5m to the right, over an overhang with a crack (C0) to presummit. Descend a bit, then jump over to a pillar in the notch. Hand crack (5.8, 20m) to ledge. Easy friction scrambling (3rd or 4th grade) up the slope to the summit. The summit register is just where the slopey rock ends and before the flat summit.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route starts in the narrow north face of the northern pre-summit.
Decent: Scramble down the slope to the end of the hand crack. We abseiled down there from a knot sling to the pillar in the notch, as our bolting equipment was unsuitable. From the pillar abseil (rope across pillar and abseil simultaneous on both sides or similar) to base of chimney, then climb down easy the last m to the ground.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A few #1 and #2 camalot, one #3 camalot, some long slings.

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