Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Chris Banks and Eric Forney 9/09 |
Page Views: | 895 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Oct 14, 2009 |
Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Start just left of Mr. Clean at the base of a thin R-facing corner.
Fifteen feet of easy climbing gains a point where the wall obviously steepens. Reach out left, around the corner, to place a 1.5" cam with a long sling, the only bomber pro before the crux. A really good red alien can be placed in a shallow slot in the left wall of the dihedral, but getting this placement with standard-width cams would be difficult.
Technical stemming and lieback moves (crux) gain a roof at mid-height. Turn this on the left and cruise up easier ground to an excellent hand crack finish.
Fifteen feet of easy climbing gains a point where the wall obviously steepens. Reach out left, around the corner, to place a 1.5" cam with a long sling, the only bomber pro before the crux. A really good red alien can be placed in a shallow slot in the left wall of the dihedral, but getting this placement with standard-width cams would be difficult.
Technical stemming and lieback moves (crux) gain a roof at mid-height. Turn this on the left and cruise up easier ground to an excellent hand crack finish.
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