Type: Trad, 2000 ft (606 m), 21 pitches, Grade V
FA: greer's
Page Views: 6,337 total · 42/month
Shared By: markguycan on Oct 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1: fingers in corner to ledge to OW to tree-5.9
P2: varied steep cracks- some big, crux pulls bulge past squeeze- protects well w/ BB in pod"got a bigbro in you pocket or are you just happy?"--5.10
P3: easy ground link w/ P4: steep hand crack thru pod, roof, "mustard corner"- 5.10
P5: varied, ledgy in big chimney- 5.10-pull jugs past roof on L wall then link w/ P6: Obsidian chimney to chossy- 5.9
P7: Tunnel thru- 5.8 short.
P8: OW lieback to chimney past ledges to chimney up and left- 5.10
P9:"Bush pitches" -manky vegetated cracks 5.10 or head right out of chimney- a little lower than belay up ledgy easy face (some loose blocks) past "hoodoo rap" and up nice finger crack in a corner-5.10?
P10 or P11 if you broke up the previous: head up and left thru sandy but fun chimney, out a roof and up the "double white russian"- flared finger and hands-5.11-
from there you are on your own: about 10 more pitches- many moderate but one with a wide 5.11crux. rap the route with 2 ropes; bring lots of extra webbing as the anchors are in poor shape. also bring lots of quick-links or leaver-biners as we sacrificed hardware on all but one of the lower raps- likely the upper ones are in the same state.

Location

left of prominent right facing corner system that starts a pitch lower on the middle of wall on SW face, look for big chimney a couple pitches up and a pink streak coming down thru white rock on summit ridge.

Protection

dbls to #4, 1 #5, 1#6, & 1 #4 bigbro!

Photos