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Routes in West Temple

Back Where It All Begins T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ R
Big Lebowski T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Big Lie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Southwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 2000 ft, 21 pitches, Grade V
FA: greer's
Page Views: 4,222 total · 42/month
Shared By: markguycan on Oct 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1: fingers in corner to ledge to OW to tree-5.9
P2: varied steep cracks- some big, crux pulls bulge past squeeze- protects well w/ BB in pod"got a bigbro in you pocket or are you just happy?"--5.10
P3: easy ground link w/ P4: steep hand crack thru pod, roof, "mustard corner"- 5.10
P5: varied, ledgy in big chimney- 5.10-pull jugs past roof on L wall then link w/ P6: Obsidian chimney to chossy- 5.9
P7: Tunnel thru- 5.8 short.
P8: OW lieback to chimney past ledges to chimney up and left- 5.10
P9:"Bush pitches" -manky vegetated cracks 5.10 or head right out of chimney- a little lower than belay up ledgy easy face (some loose blocks) past "hoodoo rap" and up nice finger crack in a corner-5.10?
P10 or P11 if you broke up the previous: head up and left thru sandy but fun chimney, out a roof and up the "double white russian"- flared finger and hands-5.11-
from there you are on your own: about 10 more pitches- many moderate but one with a wide 5.11crux. rap the route with 2 ropes; bring lots of extra webbing as the anchors are in poor shape. also bring lots of quick-links or leaver-biners as we sacrificed hardware on all but one of the lower raps- likely the upper ones are in the same state.

Location

left of prominent right facing corner system that starts a pitch lower on the middle of wall on SW face, look for big chimney a couple pitches up and a pink streak coming down thru white rock on summit ridge.

Protection

dbls to #4, 1 #5, 1#6, & 1 #4 bigbro!
To use the parlance of our times - this route is a fu@ked-up-mega-choss-pile-never-to-be-forgotten adventure classic; a beautiful line drawn in the sand. By our estimates, there were 5 or 6 quality pitches out of the guidebook's 21. There is an unrelenting amount of physical wide climbing - bring your armor or you'll be entering a world of pain. 2x #5 and a single #6 camalot were sufficient for protecting the Jesus OW pitch, but dios mio, man! You come in here thinking you're gonna flash this piece, and he might just take your biggest cam, shove it up your @ss and pull the fu@king trigger 'til it goes click. Commit yourself by bringing only one 70M rope (useful to link pitches), no bivy gear, and descend the SW Ridge - it's a great plan; fu@king ingenious as I understand it; a Swiss fu@cking watch. My friends didn't die face down in the muck for you to be ill-prepared, slow, and have to bail on this route. Fu@king amateurs. I'm gonna sit here and finish my coffee while I reminisce on the whole experience...





Apr 9, 2015
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Great write up!;) Apr 9, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
I approach isnt that bad if you know where to go.. if not, it can get ugly. For the route.. it redefined the terms dirty, chossy, and death blocks. A memorable outing at best. Dec 19, 2013
Ben Kiessel  
 
Here are my thoughts.
-This route seemed like a lot of crap pitches and bush whacking for few good pitches.
-We brought one 5 and 6. I would bring an extra number 5 if you don't feel comfortable pushing a 5 up with you.
-With a 70 we linked 1&2, 3&4, 5-7, 9&10, 13&14, 16&17, 19&20.
-Linking Walter's Whites with the Jesus was a pretty sick pitch, plus it took out a hanging belay.
-We got a rope stuck in the crack while rappelling the Jesus pitch.
-It took 1.5 hours for the hike in and the same for the hike out. Mar 28, 2012
G Michaud  
 
For the OW pitch, we had a little bit more pro than you Zach, three #6 BD, one #5 BD and one Blue Big Bro (at the end of the pitch, optional). We had the same water problem.

The Approach is LONG with the haul bag. Bivy at pitch 7 is GREAT!

By the way, Smash Mouth is incredible! Nov 9, 2009
zachlee
 
zachlee  
 
2 #5 camalots for the ow pitch is good, we had a # 6 wc and # 6 bd and 1# 5 bd but I was only able to use the #6 cams in a couple spots while # 5 works all over. Great route. We bailed just after the ow for lack of water. Nov 5, 2009