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Avg: 3.8 from 22
FA: Jason Huston and Dylan Johnson (11/06)
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. The mesa on top of the columns is private ranchland. Please do not top out or approach from above to rappel or set top ropes. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Monster starts as a tricky tips crack that gradually opens up to fingers and hands.
The technical crux comes fairly low, but after a couple of decent rests in the middle you'll still find yourself looking at a good deal of ever-widening hands before you reach the chains.
The opening sequences can be made significantly easier if you cheat a bit by laybacking and using the next crack over to the left, but if you're a purist try going straight in.
This is an incredibly fun route.
Just to the right of JR Token. Start on the block and climb the chalked tip jams on your right.