PRINT: Rock Climb Monster, Central Oregon

Monster

5.12a, Trad,

Avg: 3.7 from 42 votes
FA: Jason Huston and Dylan Johnson (11/06)
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure/Private Land Boundaries Details

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

Monster starts as a tricky tips crack that gradually opens up to fingers and hands.

The technical crux comes fairly low, but after a couple of decent rests in the middle you'll still find yourself looking at a good deal of ever-widening hands before you reach the chains.

The opening sequences can be made significantly easier if you cheat a bit by laybacking and using the next crack over to the left, but if you're a purist try going straight in.

This is an incredibly fun route.

Location

Just to the right of JR Token. Start on the block and climb the chalked tip jams on your right.

Protection

Small gear (tips) to large hands.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thad Arnold wrestles with a Monster. Photo by Matt Jones.

Bobby Treadwell

Matt Boyer gettin some and Graham Zimmerman sending positive vibes!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

5.12-

The consensus on the grade of this route from many who climb at the crag regularly as well as some very talented visitors is that it's more of a 12-. In either case, come expecting thin locks, bad feet, and difficulties seeing the next good lock right off the deck. Oct 28, 2009

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ

5.11+

Well that makes me feel a little bit better about my effort. I thought that the opening moves were pretty burly for an 11. Nov 4, 2009

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

5.12-

So, despite my comment above, I (and a few others) now feel slightly differently about the grade. Shortly after the consensus bumped it up to 12-, new beta came to light and now I'm skeptical of whether or not the rating is consistent with other routes of the grade at the crag. In any case, know that if you figure out the easy beta, it's going to be a very quick tick for Trout 12-. Sep 10, 2012

Alex Shainman
Littleton, CO

Fun splitter after the crux. Painful start! Ouch! Jun 2, 2013

Brett Yost
Bend, OR

5.12-

Would love to see the "easy" beta for this. I worked this a bunch with a handful of folks who all flashed 12a in the Lower Gorge and no one ever got it clean. Mar 2, 2015

Kerwin Loukusa
Leavenworth, WA

5.12-

If you have big hands and fingers expect it to still feel hard for 11+, FWIW I thought the opening on this was significantly harder then the Alchemy crux or a few of the other 12- on the main wall. Either way its a great route, with solid gear. Sep 27, 2015

Brett Yost
Bend, OR

5.12-

I just remembered that the hangers on the anchor are original Monkey Face Pioneer Route hangers reused from when some of the bolt ladder was replaced 2003ish. If they get replaced, probably shouldn't get tossed in the trash. But likely will be fine for another 50 years of hanging there witnessing time and climbers pass by. Dec 16, 2020