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All Locations > California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Echo Cliffs > Balanced Rock

Heirloom

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R


 Avg: 1 from 7 votes

Routes in Balanced Rock

Get the Balance Right S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heirloom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Allan Gardner, March 1988
Page Views: 1,226 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tristan Burnham on Oct 13, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

The crux is the start. Then you spiral up the spire. Watch for loose rock and sketchy holds.

Location

The route is on the North West side.

Protection

Lots of 1/4 bolts and a few 3/8's. This used to be an old aid route. Bring lots of draws and maybe some slings or long draws to reduce rope drag.

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Almost to the top.
Almost to the top.
 2
Gargoyle Pose at the top
Gargoyle Pose at the top
 0

3 Comments

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Alexander
Los Angeles
Alexander   Los Angeles
This thing is falling apart, lots of loose rock. Belayer MUST have a lid on, chossy climb for sure. Feb 15, 2010
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.8 R
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.8 R
Terrifying. None of the bolts would hold a fall and the route is literally falling apart. It's cool to stand on top of balanced rock though! The anchors at the top are drilled into two large clasts in a crumbling breccia-- a scary rappel. Remember, huecos often start out as large clasts in a conglomerate; clearly they didn't last long. Use caution and judgement when making the rap. Oct 18, 2015
Tim Maas
Isla Vista, CA
 
Tim Maas   Isla Vista, CA
 
Bolts are pretty bad. Stick clipped the third bolt because it looked a little better than the first two. It wasn't. Rappel anchors bolts are completely rusted. Leave bail gear because when I rappeled off I got my rope stuck and had to use the end that was sticking out to lead back up again. Feels amazing standing on top and the sketchy bolts add to the experience. Belayer needs a helmet as route is chossy. Mar 20, 2016

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