Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1981
Page Views: 6,601 total · 50/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 12, 2009 with improvements by CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Read this Access Note! Details

Description

A classic old-school route with beautiful climbing and some truly challenging sections. For those who aspire to climb some of the best hardman climbs in the Stronghold, this one should not be missed.

Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.

Pitch 1 (5.12, 80'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux after the final bolt (5.12).

Pitch 2 (5.11+, 85'): Excellent climbing up a crack in the a left facing corner. A combination of crack climbing, jams, and stemming make this a fabulous pitch. Pass a bulge in the crack on its left. Clip a bolt, traverse directly right, and continue up chickenheads to the anchors.

Pitch 3 (5.10R, 150'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals up and right for about 7 feet. Follow it to the gorgeous crack and flake above. Belay with gear.

Pitch 4 (5.7, 160'): Climb the stunning low-angle flake/crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.

Location

Starts approx 50' left of Abracadaver where a large boulder leans against the face.

Protection

Doubles through 3.5", one 4". Make sure to include some small stoppers and ball nuts. Depending on how you do pitch 3 you may find these helpful.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2018.

Photos