Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1981
Page Views: 5,791 total · 51/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 12, 2009 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details


A classic old-school route with beautiful climbing and some truly challenging sections. For those who aspire to climb some of the best hardman climbs in the Stronghold, this one should not be missed.

Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.

Pitch 1 (5.12, 80'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux after the final bolt (5.12).

Pitch 2 (5.11+, 85'): Excellent climbing up a crack in the a left facing corner. A combination of crack climbing, jams, and stemming make this a fabulous pitch. Pass a bulge in the crack on its left. Clip a bolt, traverse directly right, and continue up chickenheads to the anchors.

Pitch 3 (5.10R, 150'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals up and right for about 7 feet. Follow it to the gorgeous crack and flake above. Belay with gear.

Pitch 4 (5.7, 160'): Climb the stunning low-angle flake/crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.


Starts approx 50' left of Abracadaver where a large boulder leans against the face.


Doubles through 3.5", one 4". Make sure to include some small stoppers and ball nuts. Depending on how you do pitch 3 you may find these helpful.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2018.


I believe RR gave this the name JabberwockY.
One of you tukson boyz should ask him. Oct 13, 2009
Eric D
Eric D   Gnarnia
I thought so too but the Kerry guide did not have a Y. I'll change it for now and ask Ray next time I see him. Oct 16, 2009
Eric D
Eric D   Gnarnia
Yup, Ray said with the y. Jul 14, 2010
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b R
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b R
I put a newer topo for this route here:


Enjoy! Oct 31, 2015
Tyler Rockhill
Tyler Rockhill   Buffalo,WY
Just a heads up, there's one loose block in the ledge system right after 4th pitch anchor ledge Couldn't trundle due to party on Abra. Feb 8, 2017
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2018. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 11, 2018