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Routes in Rockfellow Dome

Abracadaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Zzzzzs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jabberwocky T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Knead Me 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labyrinth, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lumpy Unmentionables T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Sensory Desuetude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sound of One Hand Thrashing T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Unknown S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (NE Face) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown (S Face) T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1981
Page Views: 5,297 total, 54/month
Shared By: Geir on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

A classic old-school route with beautiful climbing and some truly challenging sections. For those who aspire to climb some of the best hardman climbs in the Stronghold, this one should not be missed.

Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.

Pitch 1 (5.12, 80'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux after the final bolt (5.12).

Pitch 2 (5.11+, 85'): Excellent climbing up a crack in the a left facing corner. A combination of crack climbing, jams, and stemming make this a fabulous pitch. Pass a bulge in the crack on its left. Clip a bolt, traverse directly right, and continue up chickenheads to the anchors.

Pitch 3 (5.10R, 150'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals up and right for about 7 feet. Follow it to the gorgeous crack and flake above. Belay with gear.

Pitch 4 (5.7, 160'): Climb the stunning low-angle flake/crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.

Location

Starts approx 50' left of Abracadaver where a large boulder leans against the face.

Protection

Doubles through 3.5", one 4". Make sure to include some small stoppers and ball nuts. Depending on how you do pitch 3 you may find these helpful.

Photos

Tyler Rockhill
Buffalo,WY
 
Tyler Rockhill   Buffalo,WY
 
Just a heads up, there's one loose block in the ledge system right after 4th pitch anchor ledge Couldn't trundle due to party on Abra. Feb 8, 2017
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b R
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b R
I put a newer topo for this route here:

toofasttopos.com/free/rockf…

Enjoy! Oct 31, 2015
Eric D
Gnarnia
 
Eric D   Gnarnia
 
Yup, Ray said with the y. Jul 14, 2010
Eric D
Gnarnia
 
Eric D   Gnarnia
 
I thought so too but the Kerry guide did not have a Y. I'll change it for now and ask Ray next time I see him. Oct 16, 2009
I believe RR gave this the name JabberwockY.
One of you tukson boyz should ask him. Oct 13, 2009