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Advanced Geir

5.9, Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: Geir and Marcy
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Lower Devil's E… > Climbology Area
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb has tricky but solid gear. Like most LDE climbs, it was established ground-up; one bolt was drilled from a hook placement during this ascent.

Later, we had a trusted friend check out Advanced Geir before posting it up. Following his recommendation, two more bolts were added to back off the commitment level a bit. Even with its moderate grade and the addition of these bolts, it's still a climb for a seasoned trad climber.

Look for a bolt about 10’ off the ground in the middle of the face just left of where the hand line protecting the approach ends.

1) Stem the start of the climb to reach the first bolt. Continue straight up the face making tricky gear placements. Clip a second bolt & pull through the crux. For “extra credit” find the good gear nearby the third bolt. Move up to the comfortable ledge. (5.9, 90').

2) Move left to a crack with a small bulge. Pull the bulge (5.9) and move a few feet right to a second crack that forms a ramp. Follow the ramp up and step right to the summit. (5.9, 70')

Descent: Rappel the route.

Location

See overview topo.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles <1" required.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun route!
[Hide Photo] Fun route!
Geir Hundal on the FA of Advanced Geir
[Hide Photo] Geir Hundal on the FA of Advanced Geir

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

roman d
State College, PA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This might be good to do as one pitch, as the second pitch is short and eases off towards the top. Oct 26, 2009
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson/DMR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] As of 4/11/10 the descent from this route has changed. Simply rappel the route. Apr 11, 2010