All Locations > Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Lower Devil's E… > Climbology Area

Advanced Geir

Name: Advanced Geir
Rating: 2.5

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Climbology Area

	Accelerated Climbology T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Advanced Geir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flake-up Exam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pigtails & Powerdrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	33.2767, -111.02595
FA:	Geir and Marcy
Page Views:	1,453 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 11, 2009
Admins:	Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

6 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.

You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…

Description

This climb has tricky but solid gear. Like most LDE climbs, it was established ground-up; one bolt was drilled from a hook placement during this ascent.

Later, we had a trusted friend check out Advanced Geir before posting it up. Following his recommendation, two more bolts were added to back off the commitment level a bit. Even with its moderate grade and the addition of these bolts, it's still a climb for a seasoned trad climber.

Look for a bolt about 10’ off the ground in the middle of the face just left of where the hand line protecting the approach ends.

1) Stem the start of the climb to reach the first bolt. Continue straight up the face making tricky gear placements. Clip a second bolt & pull through the crux. For “extra credit” find the good gear nearby the third bolt. Move up to the comfortable ledge. (5.9, 90').

2) Move left to a crack with a small bulge. Pull the bulge (5.9) and move a few feet right to a second crack that forms a ramp. Follow the ramp up and step right to the summit. (5.9, 70')

Descent: Rappel the route.