PRINT: Rock Climb Unknown (The FA that Wasn't), Central Arizona

Unknown (The FA that Wasn't)

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Lower Devil's E… > Entrance Tower

Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.

You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…

Description

Start up a wide-ish crack (grungy) then step left to the nice dihedral on the east face of Entrance Pinnacle; follow it to the top.

Descent: single rope rappel from a standard LDE rappel anchor (2 bolts w/quicklinks and leaver carabiners) on the east side of the tower, north (right) of where the route tops out.

Location

East face of Entrance Pinnacle

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It's a fun tower to top out onto! Photo by Hanna.

Marcy on Unknown (The FA that Wasn't)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ

5.9-

The wide crack at the bottom is a bit loose and grungy and can be avoided to make this a bit harder and nicer. Could still be a FA, Marcy, as there seem to be many ways to the top of this tower! Any which way, it's a fun climb. Nov 4, 2009

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson/DMR

5.9

this is a fun climb, but the rock is not great and appears loose in places. a bold first ground-up FA by Marcy for sure! Feb 14, 2010

Marcy -
Tucson/DMR

5.9

The wide crack at the beginning is short and grungy, but protects adequately. A direct start below the dihedral will add an unprotected challenge to those interested. The dihedral has various blocks wedged in the crack. The blocks seemed pretty secure to me and are not very large. That said, they have not yet passed the crowbar test.

The upgraded anchor is a great addition to this tower. Feb 14, 2010

Marcy -
Tucson/DMR

5.9

Geir cleaned out the wide crack last w/e, making the route a bit less grungy. Think I've done this thing 4 or 5 times now and each time I enjoy the upper dihedral more and more. Good stuff. Mar 24, 2010

Cody Ferguson
Helena, MT

We did a 5.10ish alternative start up the finger crack/face directly below the main dihedral. It protected well. Made the climb a little more interesting. Nov 7, 2011