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The Shmotem Pole
Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 33
FA: Marcy and Geir
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Lower Devil's C…
> Lower Devil's E…
> Shmotem Pole
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at:queencreekclimbing.com. This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
A fun adventure climb up the largest tower in LDE. On the southern end of the west face of the tower, start at the obvious crack system.
Pitch 1 (5.10b, 110): Climb the crack system past two bolts. Instead of climbing the difficult overhanging offwidth on the left, take the crack on the right (10b) and then step left to the main crack system on easier ground (5.8). Youll arrive at a cave (The Shmotem Hole) enter it and youll find the first belay anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 50): Climb up through the ceiling of the cave to a ledge on the face. Clip a bolt and climb into an airy, exposed chimney past another bolt to an anchor.
Move the belay (stay roped up): Walk up into the notch and look to your right. You'll see the north face of the Shmotem Pole with a bolt on the right side about 15' up. To the right of the Shmotem Pole a second, smaller feature stands about as high as this bolt. Climb the smaller feature (a few 5.6 moves) to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10a, 90): A really fun pitch. Step across from the belay and clip the bolt on the northwest corner of the Shmotem Pole. Move up four feet, then traverse directly left about eight feet to a ledge under an overhanging corner. Pull through this (crux) and follow the path of least resistance to the summit.
Descent: Rappel to the top of pitch 2 (about 100'). Double-rope rappel to the ground (about 160').
See overview photo
Standard rack, doubles of #2, #3 Camalots. One #4 & one #5 will help protect a wide but easy crack on pitch 1.