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5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Marcy and Geir |
Page Views: | 1,129 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 11, 2009 |
Admins: | Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
This truly fun climb goes completely on gear except for its bolted rap anchors. The first pitch is typical moderate queen creek face climbing protected with occasional horizontals and discontinuous crack systems. The stellar second pitch, however, is a different story: it is a wavy crack system that ends with a committing, technically challenging bulge. Those with a cool head and solid trad skills will find good gear protecting this exciting crux. It is a memorable LDE lead.
1) On the NW corner of the formation, climb the right-most crack to a small ledge. Continue up and to the right of thin, discontinuous cracks. Finish up the pitch on a large ledge at a two bolt anchor (5.8, 90').
2) Step right to a crack running up the middle of the north face. The crack protects nicely using a wide range of cams. The crack ends below a 5.10 bulge. Pull the bulge protected by tricky but solid gear. (5.10a/b, 70').
From here either rappel the route or traverse south to finish on the final pitch of The Shmotem Pole.
1) On the NW corner of the formation, climb the right-most crack to a small ledge. Continue up and to the right of thin, discontinuous cracks. Finish up the pitch on a large ledge at a two bolt anchor (5.8, 90').
2) Step right to a crack running up the middle of the north face. The crack protects nicely using a wide range of cams. The crack ends below a 5.10 bulge. Pull the bulge protected by tricky but solid gear. (5.10a/b, 70').
From here either rappel the route or traverse south to finish on the final pitch of The Shmotem Pole.
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