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Routes in The Coop

Chicken Cordon Bulge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coop Scoop, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coop du jour S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free Range T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Going Out Of Chicken Sale T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Last Chicken, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Touching the Coop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Geir, Marcy, and Doso
Page Views: 56 total, 1/month
Shared By: Geir on Oct 11, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

A very good, challenging route on the east face of the Coop. Start in the wide V shaped slot near the middle of the face. Clip a bolt, then head up and right in the main crack until a thin, discontinuous crack leads straight upward. Follow this crack until you reach a bulge with a bolt. Pull the bulge and head straight up to the anchor.

Location

See overview photo

Protection

Doubles to 2", four bolts.

Photos

Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9+
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9+
Geir went Brazillian on The Last Chicken this past w/e. Awesome work! Oct 5, 2011
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.10-
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.10-
Another awesome route guys thanks! Mar 21, 2010
Laurel Arndt
Phoenix
  5.10a
Laurel Arndt   Phoenix
  5.10a
I think that the opening moves are committing and are a 10-..the remainder lets up to 9+. Maybe I was still too cold and it felt not as grippy Jan 20, 2010
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+
Good mixed route. This only has a couple bolts, and then placing gear, some in horizontals. I didn't lead this, so I probably shouldn't give an opinion as to the rating. For me, horizontal placements can add to the intensity of a lead, and this one will take some horizontals. May bump up the rating after leading it. Jan 19, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
lol ok! Dec 26, 2009
Lesson #1. If she can put em up for you, let her. Dec 23, 2009
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9+
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9+
hahaha....but it was a very slow flash....more like a slash :)

p.s. geir's got nothing to worry about! Dec 23, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
a quick note on marcy's first lead of TLC ...
she flashed it,
as a warm up,
on a very cold morning,
with injuries to both big toes and a hamstring,
wearing completely blown out shoes (i.e. her toes are poking out).

just thought the record should show what really happened.

now before you all jump on me for not getting marcy new shoes, i had absolutely no knowledge of their condition, and i'm giving her new ones for christmas. (but don't tell her).

eric, i need badass lessons. many of them. starting now. because once marcy heals up and has shoes that cover her toes i'm screwed. Dec 22, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
LOL that's for sure! Dec 22, 2009
And a good woman! Dec 20, 2009
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9+
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9+
Finally got to lead this route this w/e. It is fantastic! I especially like pulling the bulge near the top; great fun! Geir has a great eye for a good line! Dec 20, 2009