Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Matt Samet and Ted Lanzano
Page Views: 19,896 total · 173/month
Shared By: Ted Lanzano on Oct 10, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Mandatory 70m rope and tie a knot in the end!

Ultrasuarus is a new 35m climb on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock that ascends the spectacular right-leaning line to the summit of the formation. Staging area is at the base of the lower ramp, right by the trail.

Begin by climbing up the ramp and clipping the first two bolts of Milk Bone. Then cut right and climb into the corner for 30 feet, through the roof (crux 1), and then up and up and up through pumpy terrain to the shelf. After the rest, pull through the final overhanging headwall (crux 2) and hang on to the anchors. For full value, climb past the anchors to the summit and take in the view. One of the best endurance climbs in the Flatirons!

Watch for loose rock to the left of the bolt line in the first 30 feet. We cleaned as much as we could, but there is likely some choss remaining.

A huge thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) and Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) for allowing yet another great route in the Flatirons.


16 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 70 meter rope mandatory.
FFA was Ted on toprope, one day before we led it - a super-proud effort.

Dinosaur Rock (and Der Zerkle, too) is a truly special place for climbers that also happens to be right on Mallory Cave Trail. Anyone who's climbed up here knows it's in all of our best interest to keep things copacetic and climbing access open.

Here's how to keep Dino Rock open:
•Stage all of your climbing gear well off the trail.
•Be polite to anyone and everyone who hikes by, and answer their questions about climbing. The families walking up seem to love to stop and watch - it's a spectacle and a pretty cool thing for them to see. So answer their questions.
•Remove your draws off the two existing north-face climbs (Milk Bone and Ultrasaurus) at the end of each climbing day. They're not that hard to hang on either climb on lead, or you can scramble to the top and rap in (from a thread) to each set of anchors.
•Brush off any and all tick marks on these climbs, including your own.

Here's how to get Dino Rock closed:
•Leave packs too close to or in the trail.
•Mouth off to or otherwise be impolite to hikers. Have profane discussions (we're all climbers and maybe a touch foul-mouthed) in earshot of the families and hikers walking by.
•Scream "F—k!" at the top of your lungs when you fall off.
•Leave draws and tickmarks all over the wall

I hope anyone who's climbed on this wall will join me in thinking it's important we keep it open — a lot of hard work has gone into including this rock in the Flatirons Pilot Program for new routes. We need to look at this as a privilege, not a right, and be psyched and happy on all fronts that we get to enjoy climbs like these in our backyard. Enjoy!

—Matt Oct 10, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Matt, how do you NOT scream f==k at the top of your voice when failing? This technique you describe is inobvious. And where else am I supposed to stash my stuff????? The middle of the trail is so the way to go. C'mon man, you need to be more clear on the rules, and why.

I love you dude.
Hankster, see you at the chains(or are chains bad now?). Oct 10, 2009
I know, it defies all sport-climbing logic.... Chains are up there, camo'ed in the black rock. See you on the rock, Mr Caylor! And remember, everyone, 70-METER ROPE AND KNOT THE END. Oct 10, 2009
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
Thanks Matt and Ted for another awesome addition.

This routes is an amazing 70 meters of overhanging goodness.
With a steep low crux and an immaculate redpoint crux up high.
The rock around the upper crux is some of the best I've seen in the Flatirons.

Yes, there is some choss/loose rock down low.
The more it gets climbed the better it will be.
Some foot holds may get smaller or disappear,
BUT this route is worth it.

Get on it and get after it! Oct 21, 2009
Elliott Bates
Elliott Bates  
Thanks Matt and Ted for your hard work on getting this route up!

This is the best 5.13 I have encountered in the Flatirons, and maybe even the Front Range. The rock is cleaning up nicely- I am a 175lb fat man- and I only broke one part of a foothold (the hold is still there).

For a good warm-up, climb the first 6 bolts before the first crux.

We had an 80 meter rope, which allowed for us to both get down to the base of the slab after climbing it-which was nice. Definitely belay from the stance below the first bolt though.

Enjoy this amazing line! May 6, 2010
Found: random draw left on the first bolt of Milk Bone/Ultrasaurus. Probably spaced while cleaning the routes?

PM me thru this site and describe it, and I'll get it back to you. May 18, 2010
Aaron Ramras
Aaron Ramras  
Today somebody broke off the second left hand crimp used to pull the first roof. This completely changes the sequence through this crux although it is only a little harder. Maybe changes it a letter grade but probably not. Oct 20, 2010
RIP, crimper ear. Glad the sequence still goes and isn't too much more difficult. Oct 20, 2010
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
This route is dope! It seems as though the consensus (and I agree) is that it's a touch easier than its neighbor, Milkbone. I thought the moves were way easier, but the climb stays with you all the way to the anchors with a much needed sitdown rest between cruxes. The moves on this route are badass, and the position couldn't be better. Overall, one of the best routes I have done in the Boulder area! May 22, 2012
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
Whoever has their project draws on this route needs to take them down now before someone complains. They're in plain view of all the hikers, and climbers aren't the most liked user group in the Flatirons. Besides, draws can be placed with a little effort by scrambling to the top via the west side and rapping in. Bonus, you can also scrub the route as you place the draws on the way down. Dec 5, 2012
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Does anyone know why there are two draws currently fixed on the route at the first roof crux and above? I know draws are not allowed on the route, and it is safer to clip in when cleaning so you don't swing into the trees, but this can be accomplished with a single biner (see photo: mountainproject.com/v/10776…). Was there approval for this installment? Anyone know? Sep 28, 2015
Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
Regarding post above, sounds like someone is working the route and maybe too lazy to remove the draws? There was definitely no approval of this "installment", and hopefully they are gone soon. Oct 3, 2015
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
Was up there yesterday. One fixed draw is attached with a quicklink at "the first crux". It made the route easy to clean, so I was happy for that. A single carabiner would serve the same purpose. Also the bolts are pretty close together on this? I think we could have dropped it down to 13-14 and still have a very safe line. Awesome route! Jul 4, 2016
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Last week I pulled three draws off the route. The draws were on the first bolt third and fourth. Kinda strange, but maybe weather rolled in. I pulled them as to not leave draws on these climbs and prevent any access issues. If they are yours, PM me with a description of them, and I'll happily meet you in Boulder to return them. Jun 7, 2018