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Routes in Mount Huntington

Brother Laurence T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Once is Enough T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perennial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Migration T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
no name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chuck Woodman & Jack Dorsey 2006?
Page Views: 395 total, 4/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Oct 9, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

2 long pitches of ledgy/slabby climbing lead up to a steep headwall with a large roof on the right. Follow your nose on these approach pitches, a good mix of bolts and gear. P3-Climb up well featured rock that gradually steepens to vertical. Start clipping some bolts as you move into a well protected crux. A few hard moves into a good rest followed by a easy, but heady and poorly protect topout. If this pitch was on the ground it would be very popular.

Location

After the approach trail you come to the impasse where you have to go right or left. Go right and uphill for maybe 10 minutes, till you have a prominent buttress on your left. Climb the right hand side of this buttress.

Protection

Single Rack with mostly 2' draws and some QD's for the crux.

Photos

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Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
The start is hard to find (for me anyway). The trail brings you to the bottom of a large slab. Scramble up a steep gully to the right of the slab until you see an inside broken corner with some small bushes on top. Head up that and after you get to the bushes you turn left around the buttress and a short ways you will see the first bolt. Mostly 5.7 climbing until the crux headwall. Appropriately named.
This photo shows where the indistinct trail cuts off left to go to the left side of the cliff where Once is Enough is. Aug 22, 2016
very fun route, alpine feel but with out the bad rock quality, easy 15 min. approach. a single rack and quickdraws and slings will do you justice and keep the weight down. Dec 22, 2009