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Routes in High Times Wall

Da Kine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dr. Greenthumb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Buddha, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Green Mile, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
High Times T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 325 ft, 3 pitches
FA: CP, ML, JM
Page Views: 81 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jaaron Mankins on Oct 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the main line up the High Times Wall.

The first pitch is dirty and interesting but includes all types of climbing on slightly increasingly good rock past a splitter bush, 100', 5.10.

Pitch two encounters the psychological crux of steep climbing to a thank god chickenhead (quartz?) to good nuts/finishing up with the best handcrack in Vallecito, 125', quality, 5.9.

Pitch three ascends a clean dihedral to the top with three fun cruxes, 90', 5.9.

Location

In the center of steep part of wall, start at grungy face below nice crack with bush or skip the drama and TR the first pitch and lead out. This first pitch would really clean up with some love (doubtful).

For the rap route, look for chains at top of wall below the Mesermizer.

Protection

Single set of cams with nuts and quite a few slings up to a #4 Camalot. There are no protection bolts. There is a fixed pin on the last dihedral pitch. There are two bolt anchors and chains at all belays. You need a single 70m rope to rap route.

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Kevin Frederick
Lusaka, ZM
  5.10a R
Kevin Frederick   Lusaka, ZM
  5.10a R
Pitch 2 has a pretty serious runout, at least the way we went. Not great for the second either. I didn't see a "Thank God chickenhead", but there were good holds after a slabby bit... maybe the description is referring to a very positive horn that I saw? But that comes after some good gear opportunities. Jul 25, 2014
This is a fun route. Pitch 2 has a little bit of heads up climbing on it. It will be even better when it cleans up a little more. Aug 17, 2010