Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Eclipsed

5.11d, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 43 votes
FA: Gary Slate, Dennis Jensen
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Pratt's Crack / Dihed…

Description

Pitch 1: 5.11d, from the 2 bolt belay, traverse a thin face for 3 bolts - the traverse gets tougher as you go. Then head up the nice clean arete. Like the traverse, the arete gets progressively harder, with the crux coming on off-vertical thin moves near the top.

Pitch 2: 5.10c R, from the anchor, step right to avoid the roof. Climb up and back left to the airy arete. 

Location

Eclipsed is the right-most climb in the Dihedrals area. It starts about 30' off the deck, at a 2 bolt belay. With a 70m rope you can definitely lower off to flat ground. I'm not sure if you could with a 60m.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains and mussies. 

P2: 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains and mussies. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pete on 'eclipsed' at the dihedrals in pine creek canyon
[Hide Photo] Pete on 'eclipsed' at the dihedrals in pine creek canyon
Mark Hudon walking it
[Hide Photo] Mark Hudon walking it
The awesome arête climbing before the crux.
[Hide Photo] The awesome arête climbing before the crux.
Smiling because he hasn't seen the crux yet
[Hide Photo] Smiling because he hasn't seen the crux yet
Getting to bolt 3!
[Hide Photo] Getting to bolt 3!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Amazing line & position. Heady bolt spacing on the traverse. Distinct crux at 2nd to last bolt of arete. Holds morning sun longer than most west-side walls. Apr 21, 2015
Gavin Bailey
Yosemite National Park/Reno…
 
[Hide Comment] Did this route recently and wonder why it isn't done more often. A rebolting would probably help encourage some but the bolts seemed plenty fine to me. DO THIS ROUTE!!! It is pretty sweet. Nov 4, 2018
[Hide Comment] Really nice and exposed! Same rock quality as queen of the heartbreaks (BOMBER), but a little trickier. Very well protected, GET ON IT! May 26, 2020
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The bolts all look great and not 1/4" to me. I'm guessing this has been rebolted. They are camouflaged.

The first 2 bolts felt 10a and pretty secure. Getting to the 3rd felt 11- and will leave you hanging in space if you fall. Bring something to ascend the rope. Jul 5, 2020
Tanner James
Sierras
 
[Hide Comment] Such an amazing line! Exciting traverse and an improbable crux near the top of the arete. If you like QOH go do this it’s just as good! Sep 27, 2022