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Routes in M Crags

Commitment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cumbria T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Giraffe, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haste Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jack Russell Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lance-a-Lot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mellow Yellow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout Ridge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 830 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Chris Bonington, Lance Bateman (Var Leads) Oct. 1st 2009
Page Views: 46 total, 0/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 5, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The Route was named after the part of Britain where Chris still lives and Paul used to! Starts just right of the slot canyon and left of "Mellow Yellow"

P1). 4th/5th class 150' up broken rock to below a groove that is up to the right.From here the pitches and rock is of very good quality.
P2).Move out left and follow an easy slab that curves up to the right to a short wall over this to a good thread (in place) below a block. 160' '5.6R
P3).Up nice slab in right corner then to a groove (5.8 with pro) on the left go to left edge and double anchors.200 5.8
P4)Up the edge passed a couple of thin moves then follow the edge to double anchors. 170'5.7R
P5) About a 100'of 5.6R slab to a short steep right facing corner with pro then move over to the left edge and double anchors. 200'5.9
P6).Easy slab for a 100' to a large ledge system .Junction with the top of Mellow Yellow.

Descent>. Rap Anchors of M-Y are found about 30' down at the top of a groove (Mellow Y)Rap this pitch (200') to a big ledge.Here one will see another set of rap anchors that descend MY.A more direct rap can be made down a route just north of M-Y .Scramble 30'along the ledge to the north then down to the right will be seen rap anchors at the top of the long groove of the route "Lance-A-Lot" From here a 200' rap to a small ledge.then another rap to low angled slabs.These are 4th classed 400' first up to the right then left down a groove and continue to ground.(Future plan is to install other rap anchors to the gully that will avoid the slab scramble)

Location

Park about A 1/4 mile from entrance to Three Finger Canyon. The Triple Buttress area is the steeper line of rock straight opposite ..see photos.

Protection

Cams.From 1/4" to #4 Friend. one or two medium stoppers.Slings .Two 60m ropes

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