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Stone Cold Dixie

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Tony Renaldo 2005
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Summersville (G… > Summersville La… > Long Wall

Description

This route has a very intense crux, the rest is fairly mellow comparatively. Start by climbing up to reach the overhang and clip the 2nd bolt. Find the undercling to the right of the 2nd bolt and use the very tight horizontal pockets to reach the bulge and make a powerful move to a positive hold to the right of the 3rd bolt. From here, it's mostly positive crimps to the top. Just before the last bolt, there's a long reach to a really positive flake. The upper section can be a bit dirty. This route is not listed in the Cater guide, 3rd edition.

Location

This is the bolted line immediately to the left of No Way Jose. Start is the same, but traverse left from the large leaning block.

Protection

6 bolts Shuts.