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Routes in The Long Wall

Chewy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fifty Fifty S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight Path S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flirting with E S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Going Ballistic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maximum Overdrive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menace Alert S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Overdrive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Way, Jose' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On Top of the Milky Whale S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
On the Porch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quarryman's Hands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragged Reaction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocky Top Hilton S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seven Minutes of Heaven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Six Dollars S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Cold Dixie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Milky Way S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tony Renaldo 2005
Page Views: 768 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route has a very intense crux, the rest is fairly mellow comparatively. Start by climbing up to reach the overhang and clip the 2nd bolt. Find the undercling to the right of the 2nd bolt and use the very tight horizontal pockets to reach the bulge and make a powerful move to a positive hold to the right of the 3rd bolt. From here, it's mostly positive crimps to the top. Just before the last bolt, there's a long reach to a really positive flake. The upper section can be a bit dirty. This route is not listed in the Cater guide, 3rd edition.

Location

This is the bolted line immediately to the left of No Way Jose. Start is the same, but traverse left from the large leaning block.

Protection

6 bolts Shuts.

Photos

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