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Full Moon

5.10, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Not sure.
Colorado > S Platte > Cathedral Spire… > Chicken Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Scramble up off the road to the start of the route. Getting above the "keyhole" was a bit interesting maybe the crux. pretty sustained for the most part with a few rests thrown in to place gear. It's short but makes you work for it a little. You'll encounter some OW, fist crack, a few hand jambs, thin hands, maybe a few short lived sections of finger size.

Location

The route is on the opposite side of I Chicken, the crack goes through to the other side being analogous.

Protection

I used upto a #5 Camalot C4 and as small as a yellow Alien for cams. I used the red Alien in 2 spots. I'm pretty sure I used my #5, #4, 3.5, 2 red cams (1 TCU, 1 Alien #0.75 equivalent), 1 yellow TCU, and a green DMM offset micro.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The anchor area.  Nice block to sling.
[Hide Photo] The anchor area. Nice block to sling.
A closer view of the crack.
[Hide Photo] A closer view of the crack.
A close up of the climb and crack.
[Hide Photo] A close up of the climb and crack.
Scott Anderson cleaning my gear.
[Hide Photo] Scott Anderson cleaning my gear.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] This is worth doing since it's so close to the road. I also checked with the rangers when I did it last spring that this stays open during the normal raptor closure in the area. (So does Iron Angle Slab for that matter.) Oct 5, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The crux on this seems like it is at the bottom where the crack is offwidth-sized. Your first piece is probably going to be the #5 Camalot. It is too bad this climb is so short. Just when you are starting to have fun it is over. Nov 8, 2015