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Routes in Aspen Alley

Analog Analogy T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digital Dilemma S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gila Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Staircase to the Patio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack Left of Zorro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zorro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Zack Baker
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Zack Baker on Oct 1, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Appearing as if it might be quite trivial and suitable only for your aged auntie, it turns out to be somewhat challenging due to the unbalanced nature of the layback/staircase combo and small roof.

The larger story is that I was looking for easy climbs for Graduation Climb, and the staircase made it seem initially appealing. Seconding, and second ascent, by Ron Morgan who claimed "5.10! The hardest climb I've ever attempted!" Without further opinions, I'm calling it 5.9 for now.

Location

Left of Digital Dilemma, before the big slanted chimney/crack, you will find an obvious layback that seems to have a staircase built in for your feet.

Protection

2" for the initial layback, 3" for the roof, and small to 0.3 for the remainder face/thin crack climbing. Use the fixed anchors for Digital Dilemma.

Photos

Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Agree. Same start as Blue Boy (aka Serendipity), including its crux. Then I suspect STTP finishes on either Analog Analogy or Digital Dilemma. I believe that the 5.9 rating of STTP comes from one of those two because the crux of Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) is attention getting but not 5.9 I think. Jun 23, 2013
Fritz Devendorf
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Fritz Devendorf   Santa Fe, New Mexico
Yes I believe the same climb as Serendipity (see the attached photo
Jun 20, 2012