The Alien Wall
Avg: -1 from 0 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Mark Givens, Joel Kauffman, September 2, 2009|
|Page Views:||749 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Givens on Oct 1, 2009|
DescriptionP1: Same as Raven/Predator, 5.6, 55m.
P2: Climb up and slightly left, pulling a small bulge/overhang with good fingerlocks. Continue up to small, obvious fir tree, belaying above it on a small ledge. 5.10ish, 30m.
P3: Traverse left for 20m past steep wall, using both good face holds and small cracks for gear. After rounding the distinct edge of this portion of the wall, the angle decreases slightly. Head up on solid rock to a grassy ledge. Excellent climbing. 5.8 or 5.9, 50m.
P4: Continue up and slightly right on this highly featured wall with wild face holds, then back and left. Great gear. Many belay options on small ledges. 5.8, 60m.
P5: Continue up exciting, tight left-facing corner with excellent pro, then move left onto Wheat-Thin-like exposed flake with finger locks. Back into corner, continuing up to belay on a block. 5.9, 55m.
P6. Continue straight up crack system to small offwidth, then follow excellent hand and finger cracks to another tight left-facing corner. Entry into this final corner has some lose blocks which were easily avoided. Belay on large block/ledge. 5.9, 55m.
P7: Continue up shallow crack on steepening headwall to small bugle/overhang. Climbing looks harder than it is but takes excellent pro. Traverse left for 3m, then move up and back right. Follow crack system up and slightly right, using solid face holds and cracks. 5.9, 55m.