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Rhode Island Ripper

V8, Boulder, Alpine,  Avg: 3.3 from 18 votes
FA: Bill Patton
Vermont > Smuggler's Notch > Smuggler's Notc… > Boulders Behind… > RI Boulder

Description

Looks much easier than it actually turns out to be!

Locate the striking, left-angling finger crack.

There are a few ways to start this rig, but it all comes down to gaining the few moves in the finger crack, then a lock-off to a semi-bucket out left.

Strenuous and uncompromising, this problem is a real prize!

Location

Up behind the large cave/boulder behind the visitor kiosk, and past "Green Mountain Gringo".

Protection

Multiple pads are mandatory, as the landing is less than stellar.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rhode Island Ripper!
[Hide Photo] Rhode Island Ripper!
In the middle of the business.
[Hide Photo] In the middle of the business.
Trying some different beta with a right hand cross into a fingerlock. Would be sweet to send it like this. Double undercling is the way.
[Hide Photo] Trying some different beta with a right hand cross into a fingerlock. Would be sweet to send it like this. Double undercling is the way.
Dean's getting ready
[Hide Photo] Dean's getting ready

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bill patton
V7-8 PG13
[Hide Comment] i've seen a lot of strong climbers try this and have seen a lot fail. If you do it the way the FA went i'd be hard pressed to call it anything less than V7.

This was supposed to be a gift to a RI native i'd been climbing with for a year or so. he was heading back and wanted an FA before he went. I'd seen this a year before and hadn't even touched it - thinking it was V0- not worth pulling on. We figured he'd bag this quick and we'd try to find something more stout later.

An afternoon later and he had to leave without either of us sending it (he ended up going knife fighter - a rarely done high ball to the left of bejeezus). I spend several days and finally ticked it. Just wish it was a little bit longer... Aug 13, 2012
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
[Hide Comment] Agreed, I never sent this dang thing. Was a total head-scratcher because, as Bill suggested, it didn't look that hard.... Aug 23, 2013
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
  V8
[Hide Comment] Here is a short video of the Pawtuckaway crew working hard on this problem!
youtube.com/watch?v=gkRcqgl… Apr 1, 2017