Type: Boulder, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,214 total · 29/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

A classic problem that is a great warm-up, and a great problem to project.

Start on the short slab beneath the overhanging face. Balance/finesse your way up to the lip, gain the bucket and topout using crimps/mantel.

Location

Off the left side of the lot. Large, square boulder, the left of the long low roof/arete of "Nemesis".

Protection

A pad or two oughta protect your ankles just fine.

Photos

Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  V3
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  V3
Kemple's guide says v4/5. I think v3 is more accurate if perhaps generous. Really fun, classic little line. Jul 10, 2011
Nate Vince
Jeffersonville, VT
  V1+
Nate Vince   Jeffersonville, VT
  V1+
I'd give Pac Man a V1+ or maybe V2. I've climbed with several new climbers that have gotten it on their first day climbing ever, in tennies too. I've done it in snowboard boots,crocs as well, so as long as you know what to do its not bad at all. Super fun though, and makes it even better when people read the guide and think it's their first V4-5. May 17, 2015
cashmab  
Yeah, the given grades at Smuggs are definitely soft. If you see what a V3 is like at an old school area like Yosemite, Little Cottonwood, JTree, or Jenny Lake you will laugh at the grades at Smuggs. Mar 16, 2016
Graham O.
  V3-4
Graham O.  
  V3-4
Awesome problem, such a cool boulder! I can see it being v4 if you're tall. Oct 10, 2016
Busted up the feet on this a few days ago even with a pad, awkward landing after dynoing to the jug on top. Pendulum swung back and lost handholds, right hand then left, also spinning me in a 360 degree. Lesson learned, stick to my own style of finesse climbing and not jumping around the rock. Back on this project soon May 13, 2018