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Monkey Boy

5.12b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 44 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (d) Aggro Gully
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Description

Monkey Boy features fun overhanging pulls between great jugs. It's surprising that Crack Babies (12b) receives so much more traffic than this route. If you’re in search of a good 12b, like big moves on good holds, and closely spaced bolts, then this route is for you.

Start by scrambling up a series of ledges to the first bolt. Next climb a short funky slab to a bulge. Then the jug hauling is on for about 15 feet. Clip the final bolt and commit to a long left handed lunge to a one inch edge. That's the crux. This route is tons of fun, and worth a try if you find yourself climbing Toxic.

Note: The Watt's guidebook indicates a hard to clip bolt. Perhaps the bolt has been moved, because none of the clips are strenuous.

Location

Monkey Boy lies 100 feet uphill from "Up for Grabs" on the east facing side of the gully.

Protection

6 bolts and anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Marcos Ngo
Bend, OR
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] This route should be climbed more often. Slabby starts to no hands rest a couple of long moves to fun deadpoints, for 12a/b not too bad. Jan 5, 2024