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Monkey Boy
5.12b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 44
votes
FA: unknown
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (d) Aggro Gully
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Monkey Boy features fun overhanging pulls between great jugs. It's surprising that Crack Babies (12b) receives so much more traffic than this route. If youre in search of a good 12b, like big moves on good holds, and closely spaced bolts, then this route is for you.
Start by scrambling up a series of ledges to the first bolt. Next climb a short funky slab to a bulge. Then the jug hauling is on for about 15 feet. Clip the final bolt and commit to a long left handed lunge to a one inch edge. That's the crux. This route is tons of fun, and worth a try if you find yourself climbing Toxic.
Note: The Watt's guidebook indicates a hard to clip bolt. Perhaps the bolt has been moved, because none of the clips are strenuous.
Location
Monkey Boy lies 100 feet uphill from "Up for Grabs" on the east facing side of the gully.
Protection
6 bolts and anchors.
Bend, OR